Vanoise ski touring - 'the snow sky interface tour!'

A little over two weeks ago I packed up and moved out of Verbier to move home for the summer via a short ski touring holiday in the Vanoise national park.

The forecast for the entire Alps that week did not look good, snow, mixed, snow, cloud, fog, more snow and maybe a little sun on the 'mixed' days.  I set off for Moutiers via Chamonix on a three hour drive through what would be the most incredible scenery if I could have seen it!  Here we stayed at the Hotel Terminus, which was very reasonably priced, right opposite the train station, friendly and clean.

This picture sums up our holiday, fresh snow, mixed weather and yet still not that much snow!

Sunday 27th April

An early bus took us to Val Thorens, where we had planned on using the lift system with a short skin to head over the Col de Gebroulaz and down to the Refuge Peclet Poset possibly via a peak on the way.  Upon our arrival we realised that this was not going to be the wisest way in, luckily we had driven a car up too so we drove over to Pralognan la Vanoise and parked by the Pont de Gerlon. - they hadn't yet cleared the road to the Les Ruelles.  From here it was a couple of hours walk to the refuge in the fog and snow via a coffee at the Roc de la Peche (it was only from here that we were able to start skinning).

Skinning in the fog

Monday 28th April
Today was forecast to be a bad weather day and it was.  We still got up at 6.30 ish, ever hopeful for some better 'mixed' conditions.  Omelettes at lunch soon followed, and by 2pm it was time for a wander around.  A quick skin outside in the fog, some crevasse rescue, ski belay, and multiple transciever search practice; then a hasty departure back to the hut to dry out.

Skinning up to the Dome De Polset

 Tuesday 29th April
Sun, fresh snow, and some clouds.  Our aim today was to skin up to the Dome de Polset, and then return to the Moutiers.  A few navigation stops were needed along the Lac Blanc as we decided to skirt around the N side of it and we made it to the steeper slope at the western edge.  The sun had already hit this and roller balls were coming down in rapid sucession forcing us to spread out and take more care in our route selection.  Joining the hut guardian we plowed on up breaking trail the whole way.  Once on the glacier we took the route up the eastern edge (not marked on the newer maps) and between the points 3267 and 3400 reaching the small col just SW of the Dome and summitting via this short ridge.

The direct way down the couloir to the Lac Blanc

A fabulous ski descent awaited, initially in the fog, then down great powder laden slopes to a direct couloir leading to the lake (mentioned in the toponeige book).  Despite being steep it faced more SE than E, so was a safer option.  From here it was a long traverse and more turns back to the hut.

Wednesday 30th April
From Moutiers we drove over to Val D'Isere, changed our plan five more times, and found the 'cheapest hotel in town' or almost, a 90 minute walk up the road to the Refuge de Prariond!  40 euros including dinner and breaky as supposed to 100 without.  Another walk with skis on our back in the snow and fog ensued.  This time we spent most of it on a summer path at the top of a steep gorge, if you slipped, bad things would happen and it is a notorious spot for losing skiers.  At the end of the gorge we were able to skin the last 15mins to the hut.  Delicious sausages in white wine sauce and cheesy polenta for dinner.  Yum.

You can make out the summer path we followed to the hut above the gorge

Thursday 1st May
Bluebird powder day.  And another leisurely spring start, breakfast at 6:30 as it was forecast to be cold.  Letting the slower French party go first we were able to grab more coffee, skin up lazily and leave their guide to break trail for the intial section, knowing it wouldn't be long until we overtook.  Today our aim was the peak, the Grande Aiguille Rousse.  We raced up in the icy cold to keep warm and soon found ourselves going up at around 450m per hour or more (fast for a holiday!).  

Morning light on the skin track

Soon the French were behind us and we were breaking trail up the glacier in the sun.  Sticking to the right hand side of the glacier we made it as close to the summit as we could get due to the large cornice, skis on and got the first tracks.

Beautiful snow on the skin

The last section of skinning before the summit of the Grande Aiguille Rousse

 It was beautiful powder and one of the best days of my season.   So good that we stopped and skinned up another 250m or so for some more turns.  Back to the hut for more omlettes and the night.

Perfect powder skiing down the Grande Aiguille Rousse

More amazing powder, the summit is back left

Friday 2nd May
A fast escape down the summer path above the gorge, this time in crampons as there was more ice underneath.  And an afternoons piste skiing in Val D'Isere, which was great despite being foggy.

The walk back out in more snow

Saturday 3rd May
An attempt was made to ski at Val Thorens and maybe to do some skinning using the lift system, but this was aborted due to more bad weather.  I started the long drive home, more psyched than ever for the following ski season.  Next year I will do more touring.


I can honestly say I have never been on a weeks touring where we had to change plan at least 5 times a day and one with such bad continual weather.  My previous years of lucky runs were definitely over.  It was a great week though!