Mont de L'Arpille - a hidden bad weather ski touring gem

Snowshoe / ski touring trail?  Plenty of fresh tracks left through the trees

On the way to the Chamonix valley from Switzerland there are several good ski tours to enjoy.  Many are classic glacial / steep journeys venturing high into the mountains.  One, just above Martigny, is a classic, gentle, tree covered route with excellent views (although more commonly skied in bad weather!)

The view from Ravoire down the Rhone Valley

After the first hairpin bend on the road towards Chamonix you'll come across a turning to Ravoire.  Take this and follow it towards the village.  Stay on the main road through the houses and shortly after the next two hairpins there is a large parking spot on the LHS.  At 1109m there is a fairly high chance you will have to walk to reach the main snowline.  There are a few parking spaces above the village, but the snow clearing of the roads to reach these seems unreliable.  A public bus also visits Ravoire.

One of the first fields on the way to the Arpille

Following the roads out of the village to the West, either towards La Foret, or further north along the marked snowshoe track.  Soon you will emerge into the more open forest and pass the Chalets de L'Arpille.  The slope is beautifully gentle and steadily gains height.  Even trail breaking seems pleasant!  On a good day you will see the high points ahead of you.

Following the main snowshoe route towards the Chalets de L'Arpille

Mont de L'Arpille in the distance

Past the buildings the terrain steepens slightly.  Head in the same direction curve around point 2052 to a small col.  From here stay roughly on the ridge to the main summit, marked by a signpost at 2085m.

The summit of Mont de L'Arpille

Returning the same way enables plenty of great tree skiing to be had, and in stable conditions you can ski more directly down the East face too.  Yo-yos of the slope generally seem worthwhile between 1400-1600m and the summit, snow dependant.

Mont de L'Aprille at the bottom left, Martigny is the town at the top right from Switzerland Mobility website

I still haven't been there in good weather, but I think I'm going to have to go back just for the views.

A two day ski trip to Mont Dolent

Lotte and I in the car park ready and psyched to go (photo from Charlie)

Earlier this week two friends based in the Chamonix valley suggested a trip to Mont Dolent.  I jumped at the idea, having never explored the mountains around La Fouly, and up for an adventure.

Given the hot weather that was forecast I knew it meant a return to 5am alarm clock calls, however, I'm now almost in the habit of early starts and siestas!

Skinning up over old debris

On Tuesday 14th April we met at La Fouly and set off up the Combe des Fonds at around 7am.  There were quite a few parties heading that way too, and I only hoped there would be space in the bivouac hut for us all.  I didn't really fancy the idea of sleeping outside in my down jacket, on my rucksack in a bivy bag!  (skimping on weight, this was all I brought with me just in case we had to, but the bivy bag doubled up as a shelter, and the down jacket would be very luxurious in the evening).

Skinning on grass?!

The skinning route starts gently before heading up a tad more steeply to the Petit Col Ferret at 2490m.  This initial section of the route is very avalanche prone, and it appeared as though some of the other parties had taken the summer route to avoid it.  We stuck to the climber's left of the valley, and only popped into the sun just before the col due to the early start.

The steeper section of the skin just above the Petit Col Ferret

From here you make a rising traverse across quite steep SE-S-SW facing slopes, we crossed some old debris on the way, and eventually arrived at the shelters.

There are two shelters, a larger newer one, for around 22 people, and an older one for 4 people (complete with bare rocks to sit outside on).  We opted for the smaller one so as not to be disturbed by all the other people during the night.  The day took a leisurely four hours, and upon arrival had plenty of time to eat, rehydrate and watch the groups high up on the mountain.

The inside of the older Fiorio bivouc

Today a few people skied down from near the top, and we found that there was a huge range of starting times from 6am to 8:30am!

Beautiful evening views from the refuge

Dehydrated food, smash, hot chocolate and chocolate, then bed.

Good morning from the hut

Wednesday 15th April

The alarm went off at 5am, and over the next 1 3/4 hours we tidied up, ate, and the gas canister just provided us with enough oomph to make tea and a flask!  (A miscommunication meant that we only had my tiny jetboil fitting 1/3 full canister! - at least it as hot the day before so no snow melting was needed in the stove!)

Skinning up in the morning light

Leaving the hut later than planned, at 7:45, we made our way northwards through the shallowest slopes we could find.  The skinning track from yesterday was super slippy, so we all made our individual tracks up the hard packed slopes.  This was super enjoyable as you could go as steep as you wanted and make your own path the whole way (one of the things I find most fun about skinning).

Quiet morning skinning

Before the ski depot there is one steeper slope you have to skin up (above a big crevasse).  Covered in frozen tracks and debris it made for hard work, especially as I was the only one in our group with ski crampons!  Finally, at around 10am we made the ski depot at the bottom of the rocks from the summit (at about 3600m??? - I can't remember).

The top of the bootpack and summit ridge

A super solid bootpack led to the summit ridge, which was exposed but easy.  I had carried my skis all of the way up, hoping to ski from the top, an excellent steep ski, however the snow just didn't turn soft soon enough.  The whole way up it was stuck in a crusty top layer, refusing to morph into spring snow the later group had received yesterday.  As we knew we had a long avalanche prone ski back, we couldn't afford to spend 30mins waiting for the snow.  So, I sorrowfully carried my skis all the way back down again and put them on at the higher ski depot.  At least I got two or three steep turns in from here!

Summit shot

A rattly initial ski descent, was soon followed by dreamy spring snow to the Fiorio refuge.  Quickly packing our overnight gear we headed back to La Fouly in slushy snow, running a bit later than planned.  Cold drinks in the Auberge were well received as we sat in T-shirts on the terrace.

Skiing down under the midday sun, makes for good snow, but tricky photography!

I'm going to have to go back and ski from the summit at some stage, and maybe do the mountain in a long day from La Fouly as a 2000m training day!  Anyone want to join me next season?