September in Scotland

Wild camping in Fisherfield, what a view

This September Jim and I went on our annual trip to Scotland seeking classic mountain walks, adventures and good cake.

Our first view of the Fisherfield Munros

Our first stop was Kinlochleven where the Salomon Skyrunning weekend of races would be taking place.  Having previously raced and marshalled on the event, this year we would be spectating and using it as an excuse to get out into the hills, catch up with good friends and feel psyched to get fitter and faster.

On the way up Bidean Nan Bian to cheer the Salomon Skyline racers

By the end of the weekend it was time for us to seek our own solitude in the mountains and with a reasonable forecast we continued to head North towards Torridon and Fisherfield.

We even saw some sun in Kinlochewe!

One of our aims for this holiday was to try out Jim's new Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultamid 2 tent (phew, a bit of a mouthful!), and spend some days exploring and wild camping in the Fisherfield, weather permitting.  Having arrived in Kinlochewe we decided to walk from there towards Lochan Fada via Gleann Bianasdail.

Walking alongside Loch Maree, Slioch in the background

A couple of hours later we had passed Slioch and were rewarded with our first views of the Fisherfield wilderness.  I was more than a little bit excited having owned an OS map to the area for nine years but never having been there.  

Filtering water on the walk in

Crossing a river in the Fisherfield wilderness

The beach by Lochan Fada made a beautiful lunch spot and from here we found a great little path that took us all the way up to Bealach Odhar following this small gorgelike stream of Allt na Creige Glaise.  Rather than drop down the other side to the tiny pool we set up camp here having found a water source and a flattish piece of ground.

Jim surveying his new Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultamid 2 tent pitched where it's designed to be, in the wild

As the weather predicted, all good things come to an end and having watched it cloud over the evening before we awoke to rain and light winds.  Erring on the side of caution we changed our plan. This area of Scotland commits you to at least one river crossing even in dry weather spells and the prospect of getting out after a couple of rainy days wasn't appealing.

On Beinn Tarsuinn in the mizzle (misty drizzle)

Not wanting to leave without bagging at least one Munro, we headed for Beinn Tarsuinn.  It was short blast up following a vague path that seemed to regularly disappear.  From here we followed our journey back down the the col and out to Lochan Fada.

We completed our journey in Dynafit trail running shoes, fast and light!

To add more interest to our journey we headed out along Gleann na Muice along fabulous singletrack and 4x4 tracks to Kinlochewe.  (one to return on by mountain bike when I'm a bit more skilled)

The Whistle Stop Cafe in Kinlochewe is a must for food and drink and we refuelled here before heading south to the Cairngorms in search of better weather.

Scots Pine trees in the Cairngorms

Unfortunately for us the weather remained variable.  I completed an ambition to run the Cairngorm 4000ers but in 50mph winds and heavy rain, which was resilience building (needless to say I don't have any photos).  And we both went on some local walks in the forest to various cafes.

Walking in Glenmore avoiding the 60mph winds in the mountains

Our last stop in Aviemore before heading home was to Backcountry Scotland.  This was a chance to say a big thank you to someone for having the nerve to import such unique and incredible equipment from around the world; most notably our Hyperlite Mountain Gear Tent (handmade in Maine, USA), but also an opportunity to chat gear, expeditions, and look at the best packrafts and bike packing kit on the market.  Needless to say we were both rather excited.

Winning at life on holiday

All too soon it was time to return home having had some adventures but more importantly psyched for many more in the future.

Torridon tops and NW Highland stops

Normal weather on holiday, rain and and a bit of sun

I’ve got a confession to make… I have never been further North of Fort William in the Scottish NW (excluding one visit as a kid that I don’t really remember).  A British Mountain Map of Knoydart has been in my possession for years, dreamt of but never used, I’ve never been to Skye, and have never seen the Torridon tops with my own eyes before.

The beginning of the walk up Ciste Dubh

True wildness in the UK seems difficult to come by, however on our recent annual Scottish holiday I think I might have found a bit of it.  Spurred on by the thought of visiting Inverewe Gardens (I know, we are so rock and roll), this year we drove past the Cairngorms and North of Fort William.  As usual, all of the maps and guidebooks we owned to do with Scotland were packed, including my Knoydart one.

The ridgeline of Ciste Dubh

Summit Selfie

On the way ‘up North’ we stopped to walk in Kintail, which was beautiful, if a little windy.  We eyed up the Forcan ridge and numerous other link ups and journeys to complete one day.  In the distance I even caught my first view of Skye.  We didn’t actually explore Knoydart, but the map was used on the hills around Cluanie.

Another cool castle beside the road

A few days later we continued our journey North to the gardens, passing the Torridon hills on our way.  They were incredible, towering piles of sandstone bands rising out of boggy valleys like the Lost World.  Maybe here we would find some wilderness.  I hoped the weather forecast would improve after our visit to Inverewe.

My Inverewe pictures are not on my laptop so here are some Scots Pines on the nature trails above Loch Maree

If you are ‘into’ gardens, Inverewe is quite amazing.  Perched on the edge of Loch Ewe it catches the Gulf Stream and every bit of weather hitting the coastline.  In addition to the views and wide variety of plants and trees there is quite an impressive vegetable and fruit garden.  If you’re not into gardens it’s quite a pleasant place to relax and get some good cake!

360 degree views from Slioch across Loch Maree

Soon we returned to Torridon, I couldn’t wait to explore the hills there and hoped we would be able to.  One afternoon I went on a trail run (ok, power walk/run really!) up Slioch, in the sun and steady 30mph winds.  From the top you have incredible views across to Fisherfield and the ancient tree covered islands on Loch Maree.

The view back to Slioch

On our last day there we took a bet on the forecast and headed up Beinn Eighe.  The weather was still supposed to be a consistent 30-40mph, chance of drizzle, fog, increasing to heavy rain and 60mph; but it had been like this all week - mostly acceptable during the day, and bad overnight.

Choosing to go straight up the hill we pounded 2km down the road for a warm up before heading straight up the mountainside to Spidean Coire nan Clach.  Not quite a vertical kilometre, but a fair way up a path decreasing in quality.  The final out and back to the summit was along a great quartz ridge of super quality and we will be back to ‘tick’ the North Ridge off.

The walk in to Beinn Eighe

An easy scramble to Spidean Nan Clach before the fog cleared

From here it is a lovely non technical ridge walk to the Western bulk of Beinn Eighe.  Another out and back takes you to the second Munro, Ruadh Stac Mor and the high point of the trip (1010m).  

The Triple Buttress of Beinn Eighe - the walk down is via the obvious scree gulley on the far left

What follows can only be described as a climber’s descent path straight into Corrie Mhic Fhearchair.  However upon reaching the Loch a well built path takes you all the way back to the car park.  Other than the path there are no signs of people, just endless wild mountains, mini lochs, bog and the sea beyond.  It looks like a cross between the Yukon and Venezuela!

The ridgeline linking the two munros of Beinn Eighe

Jim enjoying the Torridon views

And so I had my first taste of Torridon, I can safely say I will be back, in the summer, and hopefully in the winter too (maybe with my skis).  In fact, next autumn I think we’ll just drive straight past Fort William and head to the NW Highlands.

Enjoying the path down from Beinn Eighe