A traverse of Lyngen, Part 2 of 3, Nordkjosbotn to Lyngseidet

Bagging a summit in the Lyngen Alps

13th April 2019 - Nordkjosbotn - Gurgela, a warm up day

I was carrying what felt to be the heaviest pack in the world.  It was full, with skis strapped to the side and all 6kgs of tent on the top.  I could manage, fresh and full of energy for the start, it was carrying the pulks and bag of food in my hands that were trying to tire me out.  2km later we reached the snow and had a pleasant warm up on a well skied summer road towards Storvatnet.  Continuing on in the fog we route found our way towards Gurgela.  The wind picked up and set us to finding a sheltered campsite.

Checking the map to try and locate the valley we needed to leave the road on

"Chris... hold on... there's a change in colour of the snow there...!" and he disappeared.  S**T, I thought.  Cautiously I traversed along the edge of this subtle colour change, my eyes desperately trying to see more, throwing snow ahead of me, until I spotted him.  Fortuitously he had found a great campsite behind a 4m windlip, and was unscathed.  It would be the first of many times on this trip I was thankful to have just spent several months winter walking in Scotland.

Our first campsite, you can just about make out the windup on the RHS that Chris 'hopped' over!

14th April 2019 - navigating in the white room

Well, I might as well have stayed in the Highlands!  I plugged two coordinates into my Garmin Fenix GPS watch as key points to skin through on the flatter shelf above camp, between that, feeling the contours and following compasses we made headway.  The slope we were aiming for should take us on a maximum of 25degrees or so to Rieppevatnet, crossing below slopes that were so steep they shouldn't pose a threat to us.

Ski touring in the white room, somewhere on Lyngen

Heading eastwards we were skinning on compass bearings to changes in contour features trying to stay between the valley and the edge (which we didn't want to fall off).  Upon reaching the col we finally had enough visibility to be helpful and made as much progress as we could, northwards in the poor weather forecast.  After an exciting and rather steep sided valley bushwhack we camped just West of Elvevoll.

Visibility after the col.  Our camp still a way ahead of us

15th April 2019 - first day of sunshine

Another travel day.  We left camp at 8:30 and headed up towards the shelf beside Imajávri.  Weaving our way up behind Øvervatnet we remained on pleasantly angled slopes and the sun was shining.    

Skiing across to reach the safest skiable slope with our pulks.

The crux of the day was still to come, curving carefully around Middagshaugen we found the section we were aiming to ski down after a couple of brave kick turns.  The ski reminded us of what was to come later in the trip, steep (for pulks - approaching 30degrees) and the added fun of some tree weaving the lower we got!

One more ascent took us to the next shelf along with Lomvatnet on it.  Here we met our first people since starting out, a group of cross country skiers who were doing a bit of unsuccessful ice fishing!  It was a beautiful place to spend the evening, views of the fjords and our journey so far.

Camp on the shelf, complete with a patch of earth and ski boot drying racks!

16th April 2019 - Daltinden, our first ski peak of the trip

Not only did our campsite have a good view but it positioned us at the start of the ski descent into Lyngsdalen, reducing the number of changeovers we would need to do.  The ski was quite a wake up!  Focussed navigation led us to the shallower angled track above the Storfjorden, which turned into a hair raising icy track.

Leaving camp (yes that is a team member waving from the toilet!)

Weaving our way through the village we soon met other skiers, Daltinden, our ski peak for the day, was one of the most popular in the area.  Client's passed us bemused, whilst their guides asked us what we were doing.  Most people looked at us like we were crazy and all of the locals engaged us in talk about snow conditions and avalanches.  I found it vaguely amusing that we were travelling nearly as fast as some of these groups, despite our loads!

Steve taking his pulk for a walk in Lyngsdalen

Stashing our pulks, we were set loose and followed the gravy train to the summit.  Steep in places, and still quite weary of the snow pack, we often took our own line, all the while considering what would happen if each bit of the slope went.  It was a well skied route, but the fickle nature of PWLs (persistent weak layers), and the raising temperatures made me alert.

On our way to the summit, behind Chris, at the front, you can see the glacier snout that we will be aiming to cross under before heading along the valley on the right

Team summit shot - with thanks to someone else on the mountain

Spring snow and the odd section of wind affected power brought us happily down from the summit.  We found home for the night west of the Lyngsdalshytta, on a patch of snow that didn't appear to be either on a stream or below an avalanche prone slope.

Chris enjoying the ski descent of Daltinden

17th April 2019 - the technical crux - could we get past the snout of Vestbreen?

Making our way towards the glacier I hoped that we would be able to find a way through to the valley with Bredalsvatnet.  We knew the area would be steep, but we were unsure if we would be able to get through safely, if double carries might be required, or if there would be complete snow coverage.  One of the advantages of having such good mobile phone signal meant that we could zoom into the latest map on the Varsom app and see the gradient of the terrain to work out a few possible routes.  Looking across at the terrain from yesterday's peak only served to tell us that it might be passable.

Our first view of the Glacier, the sections in pink show earlier avalanches as the camera I used isn't the best at picking detail out in low light conditions

Avalanches from the heat of the previous days were visible besides our route.  We took the shallowest route possible and eventually had a good view of the end of the glacier.  Mini serac collapse covered the terrain.  Opting to spread out, despite the cooler morning air, we traversed this section efficiently, and continued to the steeper slope on the right.  Arduous kick turns followed to the thin rock line of semi covered moraine forced us across to the other side.  Finally the slope angle reduced enough to allow us a much needed picnic stop, and we were through.

Our route from camp shown via the orange dotty line, Photo by Steven taken the day before on Daltinden

You can just spot our final team member about to arrive at our rest stop having crossed through the last steeper section by the rock behind him.

Passing through the valley we stopped on the edge of a large flattening in the ridge above Dalvatnet, where we would be safe from any avalanches, and gave us enough sunshine for an afternoon nap outside.

The perfect campsite?  Rocks to dry kit on, space to dig a kitchen area, views of our ski peak tomorrow (back right)

18th April - Rundfjellet, another ski peak

When your main aim is a ski traverse, any peaks skied are a bonus.  Combine this with being able to access a peak, finding a safe route up and down it that is mostly skiable, and getting your timings right so you are able to summit it before weather / temperature changes, whilst not expending so much energy you can't make it to the end of your route; and soon one starts to understand the juggling act.

Traversing across the snow, the sun already quite high in the sky

Views along the skin to Rundfjellet, you can see the plateau we camped on our night before passing through Lyngseidet

Rundfjellet seemed to tick all of the boxes, we left camp (still unpacked) and began a long traverse and ascent around the mountain to the Eastern side of Myrvatnet.  In hindsight it would have been much easier to approach from behind camp, with a short ski down to the lake from the North, but we were aiming to have as little as possible ascent at the time.

Self timer photo on the summit. Photo by Steve

Euan getting the chance to free his heel again

From here there was a shallow valley heading SSW taking under the steep face of the mountain until a pleasant ascent along the South ridge brings you to the summit.  Excellent spring snow and light powder brought us back to the lake, where we opted to skin up the extra 300m enabling a ski straight to camp.  Still feeling quite fresh after a shorter day yesterday the trail breaking felt pleasant, and my legs remained energetic.

Skiing down infront of Rundfjellet

After packing up camp we had one of our best pulk skis of the trip, perfect snow and gradient led us to mushy snow in the valley floor and the poignant reminder of the threat of wet snow avalanches from steeper slopes above.  It also made for hot hard work zig zagging up the short slope to the shelf of Oksefjellet.

Our campsite, clouds always make for atmospheric photos!  Rundfjellet under sunshine on the left.

The following day we would cross the road at Lyngseidet and therefore the halfway point of our traverse.

A traverse of Lyngen, part 1 of 3, how a scenic ferry convinced us to take plan B (sort of!)

Fantastic views on the Lyngen Peninsular

Always have a plan B, and C, D, E... etc...  At least, that's what I tell my clients (and I endeavour to follow this too).  And, to be fair, in my head a plan B in steep skiing terrain is, don't bother.  I guess that is a plan B, but it's probably not the plan you consider when organising a traverse of a specific mountain range, to which you have booked flights to; and most people would have a more skiing orientated plan B rather than just quit.

Walking to Tromso bus station at the start of our journey

Last April a small team of us flew to Tromso with the aim of traversing the Lyngen Peninsular.  Many hours of googling and pouring over maps revealed what could be an incredible route through the high glaciers and mountains of the area including a traverse of Jiehkkevarri.  It would be an arduous but amazing journey over two weeks, 100% self sufficient, pulling our pulks.  Research told me that a few people had more or less completed a traverse of the area (the only camping one I could find sounded like a complete epic of bad weather), some guides offered a variation on it, the 'Lyngen Haute Route'.  Nowhere could I find any record of anyone attempting a higher traverse over the glaciers.  And it was quite difficult to figure out what route previous and advertised groups used.

As you do, for the months preceding a trip, you read the avalanche bulletins and weather reports.  Dipping in and out more frequently the closer you are to departure.  Initially things looked good.  During March there were still persistent weak layers, well, that's nothing new.  For a while it looked like the snowpack might just stabilise and head into a more Springlike cycle.  Then, it just snowed and snowed, and then stopped.  We touched down and found very difficult conditions.

I hate persistent weak layers, how often do you actually know how close you have been to triggering it?  With more than half of our route in prime 35degree avalanche terrain at this height, the answer was simply to avoid it.

The classic Lyngen photo - fjords and mountains

What was our skiable plan B going to be?  Earlier in the month when I realised that plan A looked doubtful, I put all of my spare hours into finding another route.  It was broadly based on the 'Lyngen Trek', a summer hiking route that follows a series of shelves on the East side and then crosses through to the West side of the peninsular.  But... I couldn't find anyone that had skied it, and there were a couple of shorts sections of which I had no idea if we would be able to get through, most notably the end of the Vestbreen Glacier, west of Lyngsdalen.

The Lyngen Trek route marked in green, from The Lyngen Alps by Fri Flyt AS

A look on FATMAP and the Norwegian mapping website revealed that the vast majority of this route would avoid avalanche terrain, and there would be appropriate safe escape routes to a road if we couldn't continue through a more challenging bit.  Phew, what a relief to finally have a plan, that might work.  

Safer travel in a higher risk environment

Researching public transport options, we were able to get a bus from Tromso to Nordkjosbotn; and, the highlight, a ferry back from Nord Lenangen if we arrived on time.  To be honest, after the disappointing reality of having to change our plans, I think the possibility of taking a ferry tour at the end, sold Plan B to us!

The following day we got on the bus in misty weather and began our traverse in Nordkjosbotn.

On our way to find snow somewhere in the outskirts of Nordkjosbotn

Mont de L'Arpille - a hidden bad weather ski touring gem

Snowshoe / ski touring trail?  Plenty of fresh tracks left through the trees

On the way to the Chamonix valley from Switzerland there are several good ski tours to enjoy.  Many are classic glacial / steep journeys venturing high into the mountains.  One, just above Martigny, is a classic, gentle, tree covered route with excellent views (although more commonly skied in bad weather!)

The view from Ravoire down the Rhone Valley

After the first hairpin bend on the road towards Chamonix you'll come across a turning to Ravoire.  Take this and follow it towards the village.  Stay on the main road through the houses and shortly after the next two hairpins there is a large parking spot on the LHS.  At 1109m there is a fairly high chance you will have to walk to reach the main snowline.  There are a few parking spaces above the village, but the snow clearing of the roads to reach these seems unreliable.  A public bus also visits Ravoire.

One of the first fields on the way to the Arpille

Following the roads out of the village to the West, either towards La Foret, or further north along the marked snowshoe track.  Soon you will emerge into the more open forest and pass the Chalets de L'Arpille.  The slope is beautifully gentle and steadily gains height.  Even trail breaking seems pleasant!  On a good day you will see the high points ahead of you.

Following the main snowshoe route towards the Chalets de L'Arpille

Mont de L'Arpille in the distance

Past the buildings the terrain steepens slightly.  Head in the same direction curve around point 2052 to a small col.  From here stay roughly on the ridge to the main summit, marked by a signpost at 2085m.

The summit of Mont de L'Arpille

Returning the same way enables plenty of great tree skiing to be had, and in stable conditions you can ski more directly down the East face too.  Yo-yos of the slope generally seem worthwhile between 1400-1600m and the summit, snow dependant.

Mont de L'Aprille at the bottom left, Martigny is the town at the top right from Switzerland Mobility website

I still haven't been there in good weather, but I think I'm going to have to go back just for the views.

Mont Rogneux a classic ski touring peak in the Val de Bagnes

Stunning views of the Petit Combin

At 3084m high, Mont Rogneux sits proudly along the ridge linking Six Blanc at the top of Bruson to the Grand Combin, a 4000er.  It is one of the classic ski touring peaks in the area and can be done in one or two days and from a variety of start / end points.  This makes it skiable for most of the winter season.  If you would like to take two days you can spend the night at the Cabane Brunet.

Views towards Verbier and beyond from the summit of Mont Rogneux

I chose to ski the peak from Loutier via the Cabane Brunet.  This seems to be the most popular way up the peak, although it is also skied from the top of the Bruson ski lifts via the Tete de la Payane, and from the Val D'Entremont to the west.

The Barmasse parking above Loutier and the road to the Cabane Brunet from Switzerland Mobility

The Barmasse parking lot at 1302m sits on the main road to Fionnay just beyond Loutier, it is large enough to accommodate numerous vehicles, and needs to be as the walk to the Cabane Brunet is a popular outing in its own right.

A multitude of ski touring possibilities within a short walk from the Cabane Brunet

From the parking there is a road heading west towards Le Tongne which is normally pisted by the hut, and you can follow this the entire way.  It is about 800m vertical from here to the Cabane Brunet and is well signposted.  If you want a slightly steeper and quicker variant, after around 1km of skinning there is a summer track that heads south up the hill (and is signposted for ascending only).  The track has a pleasant gradient and makes for a more interesting route to the mountain hut, unless you want to chat with friends, in which case the road would work best.

Smiling skimo selfie

Most people will take around 1.5 - 3 hours to reach Brunet where the hut guardian will happily serve you a hearty lunch, coffee, or on a Wednesday evening, cheese fondue.  And for a lot of folk, this will be the high point of their day out, returning via the fields or the road depending on snow conditions.

Cabane Brunet

However, if you're hungry for another 1000m of ski touring and the possibility of peaks and untouched snow, Mont Rogneux is most peoples next target.

Mont Rogneux from the Cabane Brunet from Switzerland Mobility

From the hut head SW across gentle slopes for a few km, the route is pleasantly angled with hardly any steep slopes around or above you until the final summit push itself.  Eventually you will end up on the NE ridge which starts pleasantly and then continues more steeply.  If snow conditions are good you will be able to skin the entire way to the summit, but you might need ski crampons and given the dots on the map at times you may need to walk to the top with crampons and an ice axe.

The summit of Mont Rogneux looking very snowy

Once on the summit there are a multitude of options in descent from the steep and committing to the gentle.  You can also ski on nearly any aspect and still return to the Cabane Brunet.  This means that you can generally find some good and safe snow to ski, grab a coffee on your way down and follow the road to the bottom if conditions aren't great lower down. 

Exploring the Alps, it's always good to see a sign post that confirms your navigation!

This route took five hours, four to go up and one to return.  And I can see why it's so popular.  I'll definitely be back.

Powder turns from summit to the Cabane Brunet

How to go ski touring in Snowdonia

With winter just around the corner, and hopefully one full of snow and mountain adventures, I thought I would write an article about how to go ski touring in Snowdonia.

Ski touring at dawn in Snowdonia

Weather and Snow Conditions

First things first, you can and people do, get avalanched in Snowdonia so make sure you learn about snow before going skiing.  There is no avalanche forecast in Snowdonia either.  Below are various ways I build a picture of what the snow conditions may be like:

1. Looking at the weather forecast, has it snowed, is snow forecast, does the Met Office mountain weather forecast mention anything under Ground Conditions?
2. Read between the lines of the latest UKClimbing welsh winter conditions thread, are there any useful comments or photos of routes recently climbed
3. Scour Facebook groups such as Snowdonia winter climbing conditions, north wales skiing etc... for snow updates
4. Look at instagram photos taken recently on the peaks you are hoping to ski off
5. Look at various webcams, most usefully OVMRO webcams and the Snowdon Webcam.
6. Actually get out there and have a look - probably the most reliable method!

An avalanche in Snowdonia above Nant Peris Photo by Brian Wills

Psyched after a great day of skiing in Snowdonia, I took a chance and had a look, and there was more than enough snow to ski and enjoy

Another really useful too is the BMC Cwm Idwal winter conditions page which provides live temperature readings at various heights and depths of turf.

The BMC Cwm Idwal winter conditions page

Iona's snow seeking guidelines

Normally there is more skiable snow than there looks, particularly if there has been a good freeze thaw cycle

More snow than there looks, the view from the A5

The Carneddau tends to hold more snow than the Glyderau and Snowdon ranges

Looking towards the Northern Carneddau where there is often more snow than elsewhere

If it's been windy, has the snow been swept onto one side of the hills more than the other? - normally the case in Snowdonia but watch out for the avalanche conditions that come with this.

The spread of snow across Yr Elen and Carnedd Llewelyn, notice the lack of snow in some areas, particularly ridge lines, or the increase in snow in the gully between the two peaks.

You don't actually need that much snow to ski on, as when it's frozen the patches of grass between the snow ski quite well too!

Skiing the lines of snow between the grass, and the frozen grass too!

When you're out hiking in the summer look for slopes that are grassy underfoot as normally there is only enough snow to cover grass and not rocks and small boulders.

A variety of terrain in Snowdonia, some of which I had checked out in the summer months before hand

For the steep skiers amongst you have a look at a the winter climbing guidebooks for inspiration, grade one gullies can sometimes make great skiing.

The steeper lines here can provide great skiing in addition to climbing

Often conditions are better in the morning before it gets warmer, so go out and enjoy a dawn patrol

Setting a skin track before work in March

Stay safe and have fun

Keep smiling, it's not every day you get to ski in Snowdonia