A two day ski trip to Mont Dolent

Lotte and I in the car park ready and psyched to go (photo from Charlie)

Earlier this week two friends based in the Chamonix valley suggested a trip to Mont Dolent.  I jumped at the idea, having never explored the mountains around La Fouly, and up for an adventure.

Given the hot weather that was forecast I knew it meant a return to 5am alarm clock calls, however, I'm now almost in the habit of early starts and siestas!

Skinning up over old debris

On Tuesday 14th April we met at La Fouly and set off up the Combe des Fonds at around 7am.  There were quite a few parties heading that way too, and I only hoped there would be space in the bivouac hut for us all.  I didn't really fancy the idea of sleeping outside in my down jacket, on my rucksack in a bivy bag!  (skimping on weight, this was all I brought with me just in case we had to, but the bivy bag doubled up as a shelter, and the down jacket would be very luxurious in the evening).

Skinning on grass?!

The skinning route starts gently before heading up a tad more steeply to the Petit Col Ferret at 2490m.  This initial section of the route is very avalanche prone, and it appeared as though some of the other parties had taken the summer route to avoid it.  We stuck to the climber's left of the valley, and only popped into the sun just before the col due to the early start.

The steeper section of the skin just above the Petit Col Ferret

From here you make a rising traverse across quite steep SE-S-SW facing slopes, we crossed some old debris on the way, and eventually arrived at the shelters.

There are two shelters, a larger newer one, for around 22 people, and an older one for 4 people (complete with bare rocks to sit outside on).  We opted for the smaller one so as not to be disturbed by all the other people during the night.  The day took a leisurely four hours, and upon arrival had plenty of time to eat, rehydrate and watch the groups high up on the mountain.

The inside of the older Fiorio bivouc

Today a few people skied down from near the top, and we found that there was a huge range of starting times from 6am to 8:30am!

Beautiful evening views from the refuge

Dehydrated food, smash, hot chocolate and chocolate, then bed.

Good morning from the hut

Wednesday 15th April

The alarm went off at 5am, and over the next 1 3/4 hours we tidied up, ate, and the gas canister just provided us with enough oomph to make tea and a flask!  (A miscommunication meant that we only had my tiny jetboil fitting 1/3 full canister! - at least it as hot the day before so no snow melting was needed in the stove!)

Skinning up in the morning light

Leaving the hut later than planned, at 7:45, we made our way northwards through the shallowest slopes we could find.  The skinning track from yesterday was super slippy, so we all made our individual tracks up the hard packed slopes.  This was super enjoyable as you could go as steep as you wanted and make your own path the whole way (one of the things I find most fun about skinning).

Quiet morning skinning

Before the ski depot there is one steeper slope you have to skin up (above a big crevasse).  Covered in frozen tracks and debris it made for hard work, especially as I was the only one in our group with ski crampons!  Finally, at around 10am we made the ski depot at the bottom of the rocks from the summit (at about 3600m??? - I can't remember).

The top of the bootpack and summit ridge

A super solid bootpack led to the summit ridge, which was exposed but easy.  I had carried my skis all of the way up, hoping to ski from the top, an excellent steep ski, however the snow just didn't turn soft soon enough.  The whole way up it was stuck in a crusty top layer, refusing to morph into spring snow the later group had received yesterday.  As we knew we had a long avalanche prone ski back, we couldn't afford to spend 30mins waiting for the snow.  So, I sorrowfully carried my skis all the way back down again and put them on at the higher ski depot.  At least I got two or three steep turns in from here!

Summit shot

A rattly initial ski descent, was soon followed by dreamy spring snow to the Fiorio refuge.  Quickly packing our overnight gear we headed back to La Fouly in slushy snow, running a bit later than planned.  Cold drinks in the Auberge were well received as we sat in T-shirts on the terrace.

Skiing down under the midday sun, makes for good snow, but tricky photography!

I'm going to have to go back and ski from the summit at some stage, and maybe do the mountain in a long day from La Fouly as a 2000m training day!  Anyone want to join me next season?

Saas Fee 4000ers ski mountaineering trip

Early morning at the Britainnia Hut

After a quick recovery from a week in the Ecrins I joined Tom in Saas Fee for a last minute quick hit to do as many 4000ers as we could.  It looked as though we would have a 3-4 day good weather window, so with two nights booked at the Britainnia Hutte for Thursday and Friday night we set off.

One of the larger crevasses we crossed on the way to the Allalinhorn

Thursday 9th April 2015 - Allalinhorn 4027m

An early wake up call for the drive to Saas Fee so that we could get an early lift up the mountain as it was forecast to be a hot day.  Driving from Verbier to Saas was stunning at that time in the morning, I got to see dawn rise as I travelled down the valley, and it reminded me of how many other mountains I have yet to explore in Switzerland, the Wildstrubel in particular.

The final section to the summit of the Allalinhorn

From the highest lift we started the relatively short 500m ish skin to the Allalinhorn (4027m).  Although a short skin, we noticed the thinner air up here and could only make steady progress up.  It was a good acclimatisation peak, and one that gave us magnificent views of all of the other 4000m peaks in the area.  On the ascent we took the opportunity to practise skinning roped up.  There were a few big crevasses, and we weren't sure what to expect, but after the first kick turn I hardly noticed the rope at all.

Skiing down infront of the Mattehorn (on the left) and most of the Alps!

Skiing straight from the summit itself (quite exposed on the LHS as there were several parties still coming up from the normal route), we soon found some powder lower down and got a few good turns in.  All too quickly we found ourselves having to navigate the ski resort - we couldn't find a piste map or any signposts!  Eventually we took the gamble to ski on the pistes towards the T bar before the track to the hut hoping we wouldn't need another ski pass (we only had a one way pass to save money).  Luckily there was no ticket barrier and we saved ourselves 200m of hot skinning!

The tidiest hut boot room?

The Britainnia hut is situated just above a pisted track from the ski resort, which is reached by a speedy slide and short uphill walk.  We arrived at around 2pm and had lunch outside in the sun, watching the groups of skiers suffer in the last uphill skin to the hut returning from their objectives!  Siesta, a huge dinner and sleep followed.

Skinning by moonlight on the way to the Strahlhorn

Friday 10th April 2015 - Strahlhorn 4190m

A 5:15am wake up call (from the hut itself) for breakfast at 5:30 to leave at 6am.  Managing to force some museli down (I think it tastes like cardboard!) with some yogurt, bread and coffee, it was not a long affair.

First rays of sunlight

A short icy ski down from the hut by headtorch led to the long skin towards the Strahlhorn.  A couple of hours passed by quickly as we glided our way up the glacier, and it made for a good leg warm up before the final climb to the summit.  Dawn this morning was fantastic and really added to the atmosphere and our general psych levels.

Nearly at the summit

The first skier to summit passed us as we made our way up the final slopes towards the summit, and we were able to skin up almost all of it, booting the final section.

Tom on the way to the 'true' summit, a short rocky ridge.

Glad to be on top before the heat of the day really set in (I think it was about 10am ish), we transitioned into ski mode and started the long descent down.  The only disadvantage of being so early was that the snow was still pretty frozen!  Breakable crust, ice, weird powder and leg jittering sastrugi all added to the descent!  It was only in the last ten minutes or so that we had some spring snow.

Me skiing down the glacier (the snow was worse than it looks!)  (photo from Tom)

Just to get us in the mood for lunch, the final 100m skin up to the hut awaited us, this time at midday, we spread out across the slope, which was a good thing as the odd roller ball was coming down, and we made it back for peanut butter sandwiches.

Dawn was a bit more atmospheric this morning as the weather started to change

Saturday 11th April 2015 - Rimpfischhorn 4199m

The same early start as yesterday, and today we took all of our stuff with us as we did not have a hut booking for the night.  Neither the Tasch or the Langflue would pick up the phone and the Britainnia Hut did not know if they were open or not.

The Strahlhorn is on the left, Rimpfischhorn on the right

With the same intial start up the glacier as yesterday, we gave our legs a good warm up, feeling quite acclimatised by now.  Soon we crossed the Allalinpass and headed south around the various spurs coming down off the mountain.  Here I should mention that the route on my 2004 map went right over some large crevasses, so, like the tracks before us, we lost some height by avoiding them, and continued around towards the bottom of the snow gully that the short climb starts up.

Catalogue pose on the start of the scramble before it all got a bit cold and snowy!

Leaving our skis at the start of the gully, we climbed up a good bootpack until half height where the traverse left to the rocky ridge starts.  Initially we soloed up the rock, and laterly opted to pitch it due to the consequences of a fall.  There was lots of other dubious and rather unsafe ropework going on in the other teams!  

Selfie on the slab.  Do we look cold!?  (photo from Tom)

By now the weather was turning, foggy, snow started to fall, and the wind picked up.  It was cold to the core, but this only served to make us go faster.  Each pitch was like a speed competition, not only to keep warm but to stop the team behind (with the dubious ropework) getting too close!  After four or so pitches our hands had regained feeling and we were soon at the short steep sided snowy arete to the summit.

Relieved to be at the summit and alot warmer too!  (photo from Tom)

Quick photos on the top were followed by a super quick descent, alternating lowering and abseiling - with a 30m rope, this was interesting, and although we could have been a tiny bit quicker, we were super safe and pretty slick - especially considering neither of us had done that much ropework over the winter! Ab tat and maillons were plentiful on the way down, almost at 15m intervals, and this combined with the odd innovative idea made for a good descent.

Looking back at the snowy exposed ridge

Returning to the skis, the fog was now thicker than ever, snowing lots, and we decided the best course of action would be to return along the route we knew to the Britainnia hut and decide there what to do (if we could get a reservation).  The snow was leg burning on the descent.  After a long 1300m ish climb, the last thing you need is foggy crusty snow to ski through!

Finally, with a surprising lack of navigation needed, given the weather, we made it to the hut at about 4pm.  After a look at the weather and some rehydration and refueling we made the decision to head back to Saas Fee.  My legs were pretty knackered and the prospect of another 1300m day through fresh snow,  combined with an incorrect forecast, and higher winds, made me say no, despite the fact that there was space for us in the hut.  The Alphubel will have to wait until next time, hopefully in a bit of a traverse from the Monte Rosa group.

Me doing the telemark skin!!!  Psyched to come back here  (photo from Tom)

To summarise it was a great three days, with amazing summits, scenery and company.  The only problem is that I can't wait to go back!!!

A ski mountaineering trip to the Ecrins National Park, French Alps. Part 2

Thursday 2nd April

After breakfast we begun the long ski down and out from the Adele Planchard.  It was another windy but beautiful morning and we had no idea what the rest of the week would bring.  Starting in the sun we screeched our way down steepening bullet hard snow to the colder valley below.  I nearly stopped to put my earplugs in!

The start of the ski down in the sun

From here it was back along the valley, with a short skin up to the Alpe Refuge, where we made a coffee stop. The final descent to the car park was a mixture of walking and skiing.

Exiting the icy gully at the bottom

Later that afternoon we drove South to La Berade, where the road was open early and we were able to make a reservation in the CAF La Berade Alpine Centre.  After hot showers and plenty of food we finally decided upon a plan for the following day.

Admiring the view on the way to La Berade, a pretty crazy road to drive on

Friday 3rd April

On recommendation from the hut guardian we headed towards the Breche de la Somme.  Setting of on foot North towards the Torrent de Bonne Pierre we were soon able to put our skins on, and after some river crossings began the long slog up the valley towards the Glacier de Bonne Pierre.

skinning along the morraine

After following the moraine's edge until around 2800m, we turned North up the steeper slopes towards the Breche.  The sun was now blazing down and as we got higher the snow started to soften.  On the last steep pull up to the Breche uncertainties about the snow caused us to turn around.  Steep, south facing, it wasn't the thin melt freeze crust on top that was worrying, but rather the fact that the fresh and wind blown snow from the last few days hadn't bonded to the layer beneath.  It was a shame that we didn't get to see the view from the top, however, it brought back some words that I first heard as a teenager on my first ski tour, 'if any member of the group has any doubts, don't go'.

Striding forth towards the Breche reaching a steady pace of 600m/hr!

Early warning (an warming!) signs as we spread out for the last section of skinning

The ski down tested everyone, a mixture of spring snow, crust, icy, and a final descent between rocks and trees.  But... we did finally get a few magical turns in spring snow, granted before I almost headplanted hitting the crust on a different aspect at the bottom!

Skiing back

Saturday 4th April

What to do today?  Our plans have changed on a daily basis and today was no different.  We had booked tonight in the Selle hut, and the plan was to go over the Breche du Rateau, unless it was sunny, which it wasn't, when we could go over the Col du Replat (requiring a lot more navigation).

Setting off in fresh snow, it felt more like the UK than the Alps!

Upon arrival at the Chatelleret hut, we knew we were far too late, about three hours too late, and the hut guardian told us so!  After a hot chocolate, and no luck for a reservation here, we opted to continue up the valley so we would at least get some skiing in.

Snow, fog, sun

As we carried on further up the valley our goal became the Refuge du Promontoire, perched high on the rocks south of La Meije, we were curious to see what it was like before skiing back down.

Spot the refuge!  It's in the middle of the rocky promontory at the back middle left

Through clearings in the fog and GPS and map use we made it.  As we arrived we thought we would chance a booking, the hut guardian looked very surprised as we had skinned all the way up without one. However we explained our plans, he had just had a cancellation for five people and said we could stay in the attic.

Super psyched to have a reservation (we hadn't seen the attic yet!!!)

After an incredible dinner, with seconds and an aperitif the Guardian talked to us all about the conditions of the route to the Aigle refuge and the weather forecast.  Squeezing in 31 people for dinner, the hut was pretty much at maximum capacity, but there was a great feeling of camaraderie and awesome views.

Fresh snow in the mountains

Sunday 5th April

Our last day in the mountains here.  The original plan was to cross the Breche de la Meije, and go across to the Refuge d'Aigle and down to La Grave.  An awesome, technical ski mountaineering route, and one that we were all super keen to do, however...  Last night it had snowed much more than predicted, with 15cm at the Aigle, and 40cm windblown on the skin up to the Breche. 

Just before we turned around, the Breche is at the back of the photo

Looking back towards the Refuge

There was much debate in the hut over breakfast about the conditions, and no one seemed too convinced.  We set off up towards the Breche, but turned around before the steepening.  The group ahead of us were swimming in snow, and as we later found out, pitched the whole thing, taking so much time that almost all of the other groups turned around.

Amazing powder turns

An incredible powder descent followed as we retraced our steps to La Berade, via a quick hot chocolate stop at the Chatelleret.  What an end to a challenging week.  One that left us all wanting to return to the Ecrins, not least of all to travel from the Promontoire to the Aigle! 

And the powder continued into the fog

2016 here I come.

A ski mountaineering trip to the Ecrins National Park, French Alps. Part 1

Many years ago I almost skied La Grave but conditions were awful.  Since then, as my passion for ski mountaineering has developed I have always had the Ecrins on my list of places to explore.  Steep skiing, gnarly mountains, glaciers and changeable weather, it is not the place for the novice ski tourer!  However, all of these factors have a huge draw to the ambitious and slightly too enthusiastic ski mountaineer (i.e. me!).

 

This season there was an unguided Eagle Ski Club meet in the Ecrins, and having read the tour description of 'daily climbs of 1500m, abseils and narrow couloirs' I applied to join the trip.  The peaks themselves did not particularly appeal, but rather the scenery and the chance to ski there (this would turn out to be fortunate as the conditions we had were challenging to say the least!).

Crossing the Bergschrund on the way to Col de la Girose

Saturday 28th March

Upon arrival at La Grave, we knew the plan would have to change, fresh snow, a bad weather forecast, high winds and avalanche risk forced us to be extremely flexible all week.

Checking out the other side of the Col

Sunday 29th March

Sunday was a shake down day.  We rode one of the first lifts up La Grave to the top station, just before it broke down - 5 minutes later and we would have had no skiing; and skinned up to head to Col de la Girose at 3514m.  Initially approaching it from the North, we came across a big bergschrund on steeper terrain that had been boot-packed previously, so instead we skied down and made easier progress from the western side, where a steep skin was all that was needed.  Looking down the col, it was steep, equipped with bolts for abseiling, but also looked like a fun ski (with cliffs far below, so not one for falling down!).  By now the fog was rising and it was difficult to work out conditions, so we headed back down to the button lift on the glacier.  From the top of this we had a great ski down the Glacier de la Girose and the Clot de la Cala to the mid station.  Compasses and GPS out, it was a good test of our navigation and route-finding in the fog, luckily the glacier wasn't super crevassed!

Let the navigating begin...

Yogi tea (free from the lift station) accompanied transceiver search practise and crevasse rescue techniques before much discussion on what we should do for the rest of the week.

What a way to start, in the rain!

Monday 30th March

We opted to spend one more night in La Grave and do a day tour from Les Boussardes near Le Lauzet, East of La Grave.  Cold weather meant a later start and after 15 minutes of walking we reached the snow line and started skinning up the Vallon du Fontenil towards Pointe de L'Etendard.  Despite the recent strong NW winds as we turned up towards the peak (around 2300m) the slopes looked loaded and steep.  Instead we skinned to around 2450m towards the Crete de Roche Bernard, and made the long ski back down.  Initially in breakable slab, latterly on hard snow dodging trees, grass and small rocks!  Spring touring at it's finest.

Making the best of a bad weather day, ok skiing and not too foggy

Tuesday 31st March

Luckily our first few nights in huts were winter rooms, so no bookings had been cancelled, and initially only the start of the plan was altered.  Today we drove down the road to the car park at Arsine, Villar D'Arene to head into the Refuge de L'Alpe de Villar-d'Arene.  A long slog in the sun and strong winds up the valley ensued, including some exciting skinning beside running water along the last of the snow (the ski home was not going to be something to look forward to!)  Upon arrival at the hut we dumped extra gear and headed back out into the wind South towards Pic de Chamoissiere, hoping to get as far as we could safely, knowing we probably would not summit.  Turning round at 2500m gave us a great ski back, filled the afternoon and stretched the legs a bit too.

It's not every day you get to hike up the snow alongside running water!

Finally some sun on the approach to the Alpe hut

Wednesday 1st April
Cold and windy weather again meant we had a more relaxed start at around 8:30am for the Refuge Adele Planchard.  An initial descent followed by a long valley skin at a gentle gradient let our legs warm up so much so that we continued on steadily to do the Grand Ruine, 3765m, too!  Many parties were heading up towards the Col Emile Pic, which sadly later avalanched killing three people and catching several others that afternoon.  We were due to cross it today, but the extremely high winds had put us off, not only from fears of being blow over, but from an avalanche point of view too.

What a way to start the day, crossing old debris

In the valley we met a friendly guide who recommended passing over the Col des Neiges on our way to the hut as it was more scenic, and seeing as it was not much further we took his advice and had a great journey up the Glacier de la Casse Deserte.  Crossing the col on foot with crampons and axe gave us a short mountaineering passage, which was exposed and great fun.  Our legs refreshed we continued onto the peak in very high winds.  A ski depot was made just above the Bergshrund and we booted up the face, plastered in snow and pleased to be moving to keep warm.  Surprisingly, the summit ridge was calmer, with amazing views across the range.

Now it gets more exciting...!

Col des Neiges

Upon arrival at the ski depot three of our skis were missing, including one of mine, S**t... thoughts of skiing down on one ski, not to mention the short skin we would need to do to escape, came to mind and I was hoping that someone else had found it further down the glacier.  Half of the group on varying numbers of skis descended to look for them, while the other half were still descending to the depot.  After ten thigh burning minutes I found my ski (slabby powder snow is hard work even with two skis on!).  And, luckily further down we found the other two.  Phew!  What a way to end an 1800m day!

You can just make out the slab that has gone in the photo

Later that evening we found out about the avalanche on the Col, and we subsequently decided not to pass it the following day.  An avalanche was also set off above the hut by one person who arrived late, minus one ski.  We had skied the slope earlier in the day along with several other parties, and it was a sobering experience.

I should mention here that all of the huts were amazing at changing our reservations and updating us on conditions between various huts, as well as advice.  Most huts are friendly, but in the Ecrins they went the extra mile.

To be continued in part two... the following morning

to be continued in part 2...