IML (accompagnateur's) summer assessment in Samoens, French Alps

1-4th September 2014 (excuse the in depth detail - this is written mostly for those preparing for or considering doing their assessment, see the bottom for top tips)

Day 1, 1st September 2014

We all arrived at the meeting point in Samoens, a bit nervous and excitedly awaiting the start of the assessment and what we would be doing over the next four days.  After meeting our assessors, Helen Barnard, Cath Wilson, Keith Ball and Simon Hale; we had a group conversation discussing the plan for the next few days, what to expect, introduced ourselves.

Shortly afterwards we had some time to prepare for a day walk that day just down the valley.  Two groups drove to the starting point and walked back, and the other two walked in and drove back.

From the Gorges des Tines carpark we made our way up towards Coudray (on the flank of the Criou), in our group of three candidates, navigating to various points along the path, while continually chatting about things we saw along the way to each other.  None of the points were particularly challenging, with the idea to be more about walking, talking and looking after the group, and less about micro nav.  Having said this, my top tip would be not to get too bogged down in the flowers and forget where you are! - thankfully my mistake was corrected quickly and soon forgiven.

The day walk itself wasn't in too inspiring an area, and I wished I had more tree knowledge, however if you can interpret the area - such as this plants grows here because..., or talk about the things you do know about that you can see, then the environmental side of things will become easier.

At the end of each day we had the chance for some feedback so each candidate knew where they were and what to focus on.  Not in terms of pass / fail, but more, keep doing this, think about this etc...

We returned at around 5pm and spent the evening packing, sorting out the hut / taxi bookings and trying to relax!

Day 2 - 2nd September

Today was the start of our three day expedition.  Before we left, some of the groups were swapped around, and we set off towards the Sixt valley, and the famous Cirque.  Again, a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere was set by our assessor, Keith, and we made our way to the Vogealle Refuge.

When it was your turn as leader, not only did you have to take the group and look after them (as a group of peers - thank god no role play here!) to a point, but you had to pretty much continually talk about the environment, the area, plants, rocks etc... and if you didn't the assessor would just start asking you questions like, name that flower there, what is that rock, why do these trees grow here.  So it was much easier just to keep blubbing on about what you did know.

On the way up we talked a bit about river crossings and did some ropework too.  I had to solve 'imagine that your client had dropped his bag off the path and it was teetering on the edge of a cliff just down the side of the path from where you are now, how would you retrieve it.'  Further along we also discussed AMS and hut use.

At the hut, as our group arrived first we became 'hut liaison officers' and went in to chat to the guardians about the hut arrangements, rooms, dinner times etc...  Luckily I spoke so-so French, and despite having spoken little since April it came flooding back and I was able to have quite a good chat with the staff.

Between stretching and soaking up rays on the terrace we briefed the other groups as they arrived on the 'hut procedure' for our stay, had a huge dinner and got stuck in our flower books again!

Day 3 - 3rd September

After a not too early breakfast we swapped assessor to Simon Hale and headed up to the Lac de Vogealle.  Taking it easy first thing we then proceeded to walk to some more 'challenging' navigation points - larger contour features and streams etc... North of the lake to the Pas au Taureau.  Initially this was off the path on steeper terrain, but no ropes required, and we made it to the path to the col before the heat of the day set in.  Plenty of flowers and interesting geology to see around us, and again  a relaxed atmostphere was set.

One thing that caught alot of us out was the long distance feature recognition.  On some of our breaks we would be asked to identify a col, plateau or building and point to it on the map.  This was something none of us were that confident at and I would recommend you practice it before the assessment as 'it's not very good if a client asks what a peak is or where the col is and you can't tell them!'

Upon making it to the Col we were then faced with a huge downhill section of fixed equipment which was discussed in detail before walking over to a large snowpatch below.  Here we were given an overview of what is expected of us as IMLs and what to expect in the winter assessment regarding personal movement and axe use.  Essentially, don't go on snow unless you have to, don't take any risks, if you go across dig a sodding great trench out for the group, and use the rope if in doubt.

We then walked to the Golese Hut via the Tete de Bostan, and by this stage very much felt as though the bulk of the assessing was over.  Stopping on the way to pick out direct and indirect anchors and why, as well as completing the remaining 10 minute talks, we navigated down in time for tea.

After dinner we played a tree identification game which a previous candidate had made, which was (I'm slightly ashamed to admit), quite fun.  It involved matching a picture of the tree, bud, leaf, name, latin name, habitat and various facts together - sort of like happy families!

Day 4 - 4th September
A much shorter day.  We headed straight down to the carpark to await the taxi, navigating and chatting along the way (the advantage of changing assessor is that you can say the same / similar things on the way down to town as you did on the way up and they will never know!!! - there is only so much you can say about Beech trees and Herb Robert).

Back to Samoens for around 11:30 and we were to meet again at about 2pm for our results.  

Thank goodness I passed and overall it was a good sucess rate - I don't know the figures but at least one person in 15 were deferred, the previous week around 4 out of 12 were - mostly on navigation.

Top Tips:

Head out to the area at least a week before (at least to the Alps to go hiking anyway)

Know a bit about everything and specialise in one or two subjects of the environment

Don't forget your nav. - particularly long distance feature recognition

Enjoy it - you are on holiday after all

Be prepared to talk alot and 'play the game'

Be enthusiastic and organised

Pack the odd useful book as you will have lots of time in the evenings to revise and chat

Put a bit of care into your leader resource pack as the assessor's do look at them!

Final thought: it didn't feel like the 'international flower spotting leader award' that people say it is... having said that, learn some of the common flowers that are out and about

August alpine trekking in the Samoens area of the French Alps

In preparation for my IML summer assessment (International Mountain Leader's Award / Accompagnateur's qualification) I headed out to the Alps for some flower spotting, acclimatisation and a bit of a holiday.

Amazing alpine trekking near Chamonix

With my Samoens IGN 1:25 000 map in hand my first decision was what routes would be most interesting, allow me to cover lots of ground and explore as much of the assessment area as possible.  Not only is it useful to have some idea of where things are on the ground in the assessment region e.g. huts, cols; but it means you can get to grips with the different paths, flowers that are out, and get your eye adjusted to the local maps.

I was lucky enough to see lots of Chamois (as above) and Ibex on my weeks in the Alps this year.

20/08/14
Tete de Bostan Circuit, from Le Pied de Cret, past the Bostan refuge, to the col de Bostan, over the Tete des Verdets, Tete de Bostan and down the ridge to the Golese hut and back. 18km, 1560m ascent.

Views from the way up to the Tete de Bostan

21/08/14
Folly, Lac de Vogealle circuit.  From Le Cret, up the front face to the Folly Refuge - more exciting as it was damp. 20km, 2070m ascent.

More beautiful alpine paths above Samoens

That faint line across the shale is the path!

22/08/14
An easier rest day around the tourist signed route in the Sixt-Fer-a-Cheval valley.  This was a great day in the sun, learning about the nature reserve, the geology and I managed to pick up a local English guidebook of walks in the area.  9km, 170m ascent.

The famous Cirque de Fer a Cheval near Sixt

23/08/14
A long day exploring the Sales, Anternes area of the map.  From Le Lignon, to Lac d'Anterne, over the back and down to Moede Anterne hut, down les Argentieres to Chalets de Souay, over the Passage De Derrochoir - very exciting scrambling, and back via the Sales refuge.  22km, 1700m ascent.

This Chamois hopped off the path right in front of me on the way down from the Sales hut

Exciting 200m vertical stretch of fixed equipment on the Passage de Derochoir.

24/08/14
Another longish day, but with duller overall scenery around the Lac de Gers and Pelouse plateau above Flaine from the Sixt valley. 20km, 1630m ascent.

Looking across alpine meadows to the Lac des Gers

The view towards Chamonix between clouds from above Flaine

25/08/14
The best day so far, a super long trail running circuit from our new book around the Varan and Plates refuges.  From Bay (above Passy / Sallanches), up to the Aiguille de Varan - an airy little scramble, and down across the crazy limestone pavement to the Plates refuge.  Down the exhilarating descent and back across to the van.  18km, 1500m ascent.

The ascent is up the valley nearer the bottom right of the picture, across the limestone pavement on center left and down between the crag top center left.

The amazing descent path

26/08/14
A very rainy day off in Chamonix.  In the run up to the UTMB there were a few running pop up stores open, but due to the rain I only stopped at a few of the open ones.

Selfie!

27/08/14
Walking in Verbier for the first time since Spring. 32km, 1500m ascent.  From la Chaux, around the sentier de Chamois, over the cols to the base of the Rosablanche, down to Tortin, up col de Chassoure and back.

View from just above La Chaux, Verbier.

Ibex on the sentier des Chamois walking route

28/08/14
An admin and rest day in Verbier, final bits of research to do and sleep in preparation for the exam in a few days.

A Kerner's Lousewort

29/08/14
Trail running on a different route from the same book, from the Col de Forclaz, past the Trient glacier over the Fenetre d'Arpette and around via Champex.  Incredible but busier.  21km, 1800m ascent.

Green mountains above the Trient village

The path that takes you up to the Fenetre D'Arpette

30/08/14
Chilled day finishing off revision and catching up with mates and last week's candidates.

Views typical of the alpine trekking in the Samoens area

31/08/14
Last minute navigation and ropework practice around the Folly hut area before the new week starts tomorrow. 10km, 800m ascent.

1-4/09/2014
The IML summer assessment - read next blog post for more.

Trient Glacier

Totals:
Days: 12 days, 10 of which were out on the hill, 8 of which were long hill days
KMs: 170km
Ascent: 12 730m ascent
Flowers spotted: lost count, over 100 - most exciting were the Mount Cenis Bellflower and Kerner's Lousewort (how sad am I!!!)
Animals seen: Ibex, Chamois, Marmot, Squirrel, people!
Birds seen: lots, I still don't know what they all are!

Best route:
Has got to be the Varan Plates day - long, but incredible, technical, quiet and amazing. 

Dark clouds in the distance bring and end to the sun - this has been one of the worst alpine summers in years.

Route to go back there for:
I never managed to get to do the Mt. Buet circuit.  Having been there in winter, I would love to do a summer hit, next year...

Summer Expedition to Kyrgystan and Uzbekistan

Expedition to Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan - written about a month ago!

Earlier this week I returned from a month long trip as an expedition leader with a group of 12 students and 2 teachers.  Not only was it lovely to have such a small group of bright students, but the entire expedition was a great success from the trekking to the project and the rest and relaxation at the end.

Market shopping for vegetables in Kyrgyzstan

Having only been in Kyrgyzstan for a couple of days we were off on the acclimatisation trek around Son Kul.  A beautiful lake just south of Bishkek and surrounded by hills and snowcapped mountains.  Along the way we crossed several high cols and the students had to cook all of their own food and wild camp.

First campsite on the Son Kul Lake acclimatisation trek

Walking up the 'gorge' on the Son Kul trek, beautiful scenery and trickier underfoot

Soon after this was our main trek in the Tereskey Alatau mountains south of Karakol – one of the main starting points for trekking in the East of the country and at the far end of Lake Issu-Kul (the second largest alpine lake in the world and very much like Lake Geneva).

First day of the main trek in the Terskey Alatau range

On the way up to the first big pass on the main trek

This was a tough and demanding trek through stunning alpine scenery and crossed several passes over 3500m.  With singing, determination, good pace setting and amazing food cooked on trangias the entire group made it through.  

Amazing alpine like trekking on the way to the main pass of the big trek

The famous Ala Kol Lake

We were lucky to encounter no snow fields and have no serious river crossings.  The weather was also reasonably kind to us, letting us off with a few strong rain showers in the afternoons, no snow and only one freeze overnight.

Lots of the local kids took part in the project

From here we began our epic five day border crossing through Kazakstan to our project site in the Nurata mountains of Uzbekistan.  Generally the project phase of the trip is the phase I am most worried about.  High expectations from the group, combined with 3^rd world organisation and plans, communication through many channels from organisation to organisation, and you can often have a mini nightmare on your hands.  However I can honesty say it was the best project I have been part on the leadership team for yet.  The task was to provide the school with a water source by digging a small trench 1.2km long, laying pipes in it and there you go (in three days).  The first day 600m was dug, the second and morning of the third the rest was dug, and by the afternoon of our last day the pipes were laid, connected and covered and water was flowing out of the end by the school.

The Kalon Minaret in Bukhara

More buildings in Bukhara

After this it was time to head for the final expedition stage, the Rest and Relaxation (or R+R).  A whirlwind tour of Bukhara and Samarkand followed, both as incredible as each other and filled to the brim with huge buildings somewhat controversially restored mixed in with older derelict and modern mosques.  Outside of tourist season it was hot but quieter and a great end to the trip, not least because the food was better!

The Registran in Samarkand

Overall it was a thoroughly successful expedition and I can't wait to explore more of the Alpine like terrain of Central Asia and am hoping to visit Tajikistan in the not too distant future (if you know of anyone who has skied here please let me know!)