Making the best of Verbier ski conditions mid December 2014

Ski conditions in Verbier have been very mixed over the last two weeks.  Mont Fort opened last weekend, as did the La Chaux 'slow' chairlift and we've had everything from sun to rain and snow.

Lots of promising wintery clouds, but not much fresh snow

The mornings are normally quite good on the pistes, thanks to the incredible snow making that is going on each evening.  As we are one of the few resorts open it is quite busy with people coming from France and other resorts in Switzerland to ski here.

La Chaux earlier this week - it looks a tiny bit snowier now

By the time the afternoon arrives rocks start appearing across the slopes and most people seem to start heading down at 3pm ish.

Super pistes after some fresh snow in Verbier

So, what can you do to get the most out of the conditions?

Wake up for the first lift up the mountain, ski the best snow in the quietest conditions.

As 10am arrives head over to Siviez where two amazingly quiet slopes are open and in very good condition. It does take an extra 15mins to get there, but it's worth it.

The blue run at Siviez

The very man made red run at Siviez

Then, when you're fed up hit Chamonix for some gear shopping, and yes... cheaper food and coffee!

Gear shopping and being a tourist in Chamonix

Yesterday we had around 15cm of fresh snow and it was looking promising until today it began raining up to 2700m on the mountain.

Verbier ski conditions, first week of December 2014

The glimmer of surface hoar crystals in the sun

The temperatures in Verbier have finally dropped enough to start making copious amounts of artificial snow again, although only really above Ruinettes.  Pistes are in pretty good condition still, although they are a bit busier, and finally the end of the 'M25' to Ruinettes has softened up a little with the 'new snow'.

Busier pistes and artificial snow making, Verbier in full swing!

In town we are all excitedly awaiting the first storms to arrive, hopefully this weekend and early next week.

Surface hoar just off the pistes

However, with the cold temperatures we spotted a huge layer of surface hoar, about 2 inches deep around by Lac de Vaux, so when the new snow falls this will not be a good layer for avalanches.  I can only hope it will disappear!

Super cloud inversions in Verbier earlier this week

In the meantime, the skiing has been well interspersed with walks around the mountains.

Walking in the mountains above Verbier wishing for snow

The ticket barrier at Les Esserts - not sure how this is going to work!

Altitrail Mont-Blanc, a trail running guide book review

During the summer 2014 I spent a few weeks walking and running in the Alps.  It was the first time I had been to the alps during the summer months for around four years and more since I had visited with the sole purpose of not climbing or mountaineering.  The climbing box made it into the van but lack of partners and a regained love of fast light travel through the mountains meant that it stayed in there.

The Altitrail Mont-Blanc guidebook

Before I left I was handed a trail running guide book, Altitrail Mont-Blanc, a JMEditions book by Pascal Frerot, published in English and French.  Generally I prefer to invent my own routes, going where it looks exciting and to places I haven't been, so I was a bit sceptical.  However I now can't wait to 'tick off' more of the runs in there.

Route 16 by the Glacier du Trient

The book is light enough to carry in your rucksack (along with the relevant map I hasten to add), and is packed with photos of the routes and terrain.  It is split into four sections, three of increasing difficulty and length, and one of vertical kilometers - this might sound a bit odd to some runners, but is all the craze on the continent!  After the short but interesting introductory pages of the book, you soon get into the various routes.

The first page of a route from the guidebook

Each route in the book has an ascent, descent, length in km, timings, water fill up points, map required, terrain guide, time of year to run in etc... in addition to the description.  This is the place to start when deciding which run is for you, and the extra's such as the water and refreshment notes are really useful.  The timings are given as an estimate, e.g. 3-5hrs, the 3 hours being that expected of a 'world class trail runner... 1500m ascent per hour and 16km/h', and the 5 hours that of an average trail runner, '650m ascent per hour and 7km/h'.  This is accompanied by a rough map of the route and a profile chart.

The second page of the same route from the guidebook showing how the routes are described alongside the photos

After the short fact box the description begins, easy to follow (despite being in two languages) and packed with pictures of the route - complete with the route drawn on like a climbing guidebook.  The route is broken down into small timed sections, and always has an add on 'to do more' if you have enough energy at the end.  

Perfect trails and perfect views in the Chamonix valley

 With routes from 13.5km to 36km, ascents of 1100m to 2900m (excluding the vertical km's) there is something for everyone, beginner to seasoned pro.  I can thoroughly recommend route no. 15, Balcon de Varan et desert de Plate, it was incredible, exhilarating, and I would never have thought of visiting this area without the book.  I got my copy as a special from Cotswold Outdoor Royal Oak for £22.95, and although that's not cheap it's well worth it, think of it as 85pence per route!

Photo of the book's front cover and the photos of inside the book all come from JMEditions.

First week of skiing Verbier winter 14/15

Last weekend we arrived in Verbier just in time to see the last light on the mountains, and it did not look good.  A week ago there was 60cm on snow on the mountain report and today there is a mere 35cm.  Bare all the way up to Savoleyres and Ruinettes, in addition to being too hot to make artificial snow; it looked more like spring than early December.

Ski conditions at Savoleyres

What could there possibly be to get psyched for?!

The View from the Verbier Funispace to Attelas

Yesterday we headed up the mountain for a look at the pistes and...

Remembering how to ski on pretty good pistes

1. The pistes were in surprisingly good nick
2. You can ski Lac de Vaux, La Chaux, and from Attelas to Ruinettes and the James Blunt chairlift
3. It is super quiet
4. There aren't that many rocks on the piste - a few but I've seen way more in Spring!
5. Trail running conditions are still in
6. If you have a 4x4 you can drive to Les Ruinettes!!!
7. The ski pass is cheaper this week
8. A storm is due at the end of this week
9. If you are lacking psyche hang out in a telecabine full of gap year students, they are very psyched!
10. No one is stressed as the clients have yet to arrive

However there is absolutely no off piste and probably won't be any for a long time, so pack your trainers and piste skis.

Atmostpheric views towards Chamonix - is that weather on the way?

Y Gribin on Glyder Fawr, in the Ogwen valley

Last weekend my sister came up to stay with us in Snowdonia.  The requirement for Sunday was a good mountain walk with a tiny bit of scrambling.  As I'm trying to convince her to start climbing I thought it would be a good introduction to get on a grade one scramble, and to prepare for some of the more exciting longer walks you can do both in the UK and the Alps.  It couldn't have too much exposure and not be too long either, so I was 'very good' and put thoughts of Tryfan behind me and opted for Y Gribin in the Glyders instead.

Misty views across Llyn Idwal.  The Y Gribin scramble path starts by the stone wall on the left.

The forecast was for sun from 11am onwards, light winds and no precipitation.  We had a leisurely start and left Ogwen cottage at around 10am.  A nice stroll up to Llyn Idwal until the first dry stone wall, where you follow this up to the start of the ridge between Idwal and Bochlwyd.

The view across to Tryfan from the start of the Y Gribin ridge

The initial section of the ascent until the 'football field' is steady, on a good path with excellent views.

The view from the 'football field' to the main part of the ridge scramble

From the 'field' the path continues up through the rocks and onto the main ridge of Y Gribin.  Here you can either remain on the 'true' ridge or continue on the right hand side joining the ridge later on and avoiding the majority of the exposure - although the route finding is trickier here.

My sister on the scramble

It seems as soon as the good scrambling starts it ends.  The route is short but great fun, and takes you right to the top of the Glyderau 'plateau' from where we turned west to Glyder Fawr at 1000.8m high (or 999m on the map as it was resurveyed in 2010).

On top of the Glyderau 'plateau'

Glyder Fawr is the fifth highest mountain in Wales, and Glyder is supposed to mean 'heap of stones' from the Welsh, gludair, and Glyder Fawr is translated as 'big heap'

The view from the summit across to sunny Llanberis

By the time we had reached the top the sun was coming out and the mist was clearing in waves.  We sheltered across the back of the summit from the icy light breeze for a lunch break and then headed down the screes to the devil's kitchen descent path.

Autumnal colours on Y Garn

It was a short sharp walk back down to the lake, and we descended to the bottom of the Idwal Slabs before  returning around the other side of the cwm back to the road.

The Y Gribin ridge with Tryfan behind

To summarise it was a super day out in the mountains, atmostpheric misty views, relatively quiet on the scramble and a pleasant cool temperature, requiring only an icebreaker t-shirt and my incredible Haglofs Boa 'active' softshell for the majority of the day.

Pen Y Ole Wen reflected in the sill water at the end of the day

Y Gribin scramble on Lliwedd

The incredible views from Y Gribin towards Moel Siabod

(Please excuse the picture quality, my phone camera is not that great)

Most keen hillwalkers will have heard of the Y Gribin grade one scramble in the Ogwen valley, but few know the Y Gribin on Lliwedd.  Earlier this summer I was assessing a D of E group on Snowdon, and having check-pointed them on the summit I watched them down the initial steep section of the Watkin path, having to descend a bit myself as there was some light fog, and then remembered my van was the other side of the mountain... Damn!  I didn't really fancy going over Lliwedd, having already been up Snowdon twice in one day, but recalled reading where the start of the Gribin ridge was.  It was incredible, a fast descent, not a soul in sight, and I vowed to go back and ascend it.

Panorama of Lliwedd on the Left, the Gribin ridge in the centre and Snowdon on the right

Earlier this week a friend and I did just that.  As it is a short route, we had a lie in, and with the bad forecast, as Lliwedd is around 200m lower than Snowdon, had a much more pleasant day then those heading for higher peaks.

The small river crossing to get to the start of the ridge

Setting off up the Miner's track you soon pass the 'normal' descent route of Lliwedd, from where you can see our objective.  After a short walk onwards we were at the base of the ridge. 

Looking up at the entire ridge line

The first sections of the scramble are gentle, with simpler steps and routefinding.  As you ease into it and ascend further not only do the steps become 'solid grade one' but you need to begin to focus in on the route to seek out the best and simplest line.  With the hardest section left until last you soon top out by a small cairn and lake near the main path.

One of the main sections of scrambling

From here we traversed over Lliwedd in the fog and then legged it down to the car.

Fog and sun at the top of the ridge

It was a great adventure out, and one that I would highly recommend to the grade one scrambler who wishes to seek out a sound route without encountering many if any other people.

Snowdon panorama looking atmospheric between heavy rain showers

IML (accompagnateur's) summer assessment in Samoens, French Alps

1-4th September 2014 (excuse the in depth detail - this is written mostly for those preparing for or considering doing their assessment, see the bottom for top tips)

Day 1, 1st September 2014

We all arrived at the meeting point in Samoens, a bit nervous and excitedly awaiting the start of the assessment and what we would be doing over the next four days.  After meeting our assessors, Helen Barnard, Cath Wilson, Keith Ball and Simon Hale; we had a group conversation discussing the plan for the next few days, what to expect, introduced ourselves.

Shortly afterwards we had some time to prepare for a day walk that day just down the valley.  Two groups drove to the starting point and walked back, and the other two walked in and drove back.

From the Gorges des Tines carpark we made our way up towards Coudray (on the flank of the Criou), in our group of three candidates, navigating to various points along the path, while continually chatting about things we saw along the way to each other.  None of the points were particularly challenging, with the idea to be more about walking, talking and looking after the group, and less about micro nav.  Having said this, my top tip would be not to get too bogged down in the flowers and forget where you are! - thankfully my mistake was corrected quickly and soon forgiven.

The day walk itself wasn't in too inspiring an area, and I wished I had more tree knowledge, however if you can interpret the area - such as this plants grows here because..., or talk about the things you do know about that you can see, then the environmental side of things will become easier.

At the end of each day we had the chance for some feedback so each candidate knew where they were and what to focus on.  Not in terms of pass / fail, but more, keep doing this, think about this etc...

We returned at around 5pm and spent the evening packing, sorting out the hut / taxi bookings and trying to relax!

Day 2 - 2nd September

Today was the start of our three day expedition.  Before we left, some of the groups were swapped around, and we set off towards the Sixt valley, and the famous Cirque.  Again, a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere was set by our assessor, Keith, and we made our way to the Vogealle Refuge.

When it was your turn as leader, not only did you have to take the group and look after them (as a group of peers - thank god no role play here!) to a point, but you had to pretty much continually talk about the environment, the area, plants, rocks etc... and if you didn't the assessor would just start asking you questions like, name that flower there, what is that rock, why do these trees grow here.  So it was much easier just to keep blubbing on about what you did know.

On the way up we talked a bit about river crossings and did some ropework too.  I had to solve 'imagine that your client had dropped his bag off the path and it was teetering on the edge of a cliff just down the side of the path from where you are now, how would you retrieve it.'  Further along we also discussed AMS and hut use.

At the hut, as our group arrived first we became 'hut liaison officers' and went in to chat to the guardians about the hut arrangements, rooms, dinner times etc...  Luckily I spoke so-so French, and despite having spoken little since April it came flooding back and I was able to have quite a good chat with the staff.

Between stretching and soaking up rays on the terrace we briefed the other groups as they arrived on the 'hut procedure' for our stay, had a huge dinner and got stuck in our flower books again!

Day 3 - 3rd September

After a not too early breakfast we swapped assessor to Simon Hale and headed up to the Lac de Vogealle.  Taking it easy first thing we then proceeded to walk to some more 'challenging' navigation points - larger contour features and streams etc... North of the lake to the Pas au Taureau.  Initially this was off the path on steeper terrain, but no ropes required, and we made it to the path to the col before the heat of the day set in.  Plenty of flowers and interesting geology to see around us, and again  a relaxed atmostphere was set.

One thing that caught alot of us out was the long distance feature recognition.  On some of our breaks we would be asked to identify a col, plateau or building and point to it on the map.  This was something none of us were that confident at and I would recommend you practice it before the assessment as 'it's not very good if a client asks what a peak is or where the col is and you can't tell them!'

Upon making it to the Col we were then faced with a huge downhill section of fixed equipment which was discussed in detail before walking over to a large snowpatch below.  Here we were given an overview of what is expected of us as IMLs and what to expect in the winter assessment regarding personal movement and axe use.  Essentially, don't go on snow unless you have to, don't take any risks, if you go across dig a sodding great trench out for the group, and use the rope if in doubt.

We then walked to the Golese Hut via the Tete de Bostan, and by this stage very much felt as though the bulk of the assessing was over.  Stopping on the way to pick out direct and indirect anchors and why, as well as completing the remaining 10 minute talks, we navigated down in time for tea.

After dinner we played a tree identification game which a previous candidate had made, which was (I'm slightly ashamed to admit), quite fun.  It involved matching a picture of the tree, bud, leaf, name, latin name, habitat and various facts together - sort of like happy families!

Day 4 - 4th September
A much shorter day.  We headed straight down to the carpark to await the taxi, navigating and chatting along the way (the advantage of changing assessor is that you can say the same / similar things on the way down to town as you did on the way up and they will never know!!! - there is only so much you can say about Beech trees and Herb Robert).

Back to Samoens for around 11:30 and we were to meet again at about 2pm for our results.  

Thank goodness I passed and overall it was a good sucess rate - I don't know the figures but at least one person in 15 were deferred, the previous week around 4 out of 12 were - mostly on navigation.

Top Tips:

Head out to the area at least a week before (at least to the Alps to go hiking anyway)

Know a bit about everything and specialise in one or two subjects of the environment

Don't forget your nav. - particularly long distance feature recognition

Enjoy it - you are on holiday after all

Be prepared to talk alot and 'play the game'

Be enthusiastic and organised

Pack the odd useful book as you will have lots of time in the evenings to revise and chat

Put a bit of care into your leader resource pack as the assessor's do look at them!

Final thought: it didn't feel like the 'international flower spotting leader award' that people say it is... having said that, learn some of the common flowers that are out and about

August alpine trekking in the Samoens area of the French Alps

In preparation for my IML summer assessment (International Mountain Leader's Award / Accompagnateur's qualification) I headed out to the Alps for some flower spotting, acclimatisation and a bit of a holiday.

Amazing alpine trekking near Chamonix

With my Samoens IGN 1:25 000 map in hand my first decision was what routes would be most interesting, allow me to cover lots of ground and explore as much of the assessment area as possible.  Not only is it useful to have some idea of where things are on the ground in the assessment region e.g. huts, cols; but it means you can get to grips with the different paths, flowers that are out, and get your eye adjusted to the local maps.

I was lucky enough to see lots of Chamois (as above) and Ibex on my weeks in the Alps this year.

20/08/14
Tete de Bostan Circuit, from Le Pied de Cret, past the Bostan refuge, to the col de Bostan, over the Tete des Verdets, Tete de Bostan and down the ridge to the Golese hut and back. 18km, 1560m ascent.

Views from the way up to the Tete de Bostan

21/08/14
Folly, Lac de Vogealle circuit.  From Le Cret, up the front face to the Folly Refuge - more exciting as it was damp. 20km, 2070m ascent.

More beautiful alpine paths above Samoens

That faint line across the shale is the path!

22/08/14
An easier rest day around the tourist signed route in the Sixt-Fer-a-Cheval valley.  This was a great day in the sun, learning about the nature reserve, the geology and I managed to pick up a local English guidebook of walks in the area.  9km, 170m ascent.

The famous Cirque de Fer a Cheval near Sixt

23/08/14
A long day exploring the Sales, Anternes area of the map.  From Le Lignon, to Lac d'Anterne, over the back and down to Moede Anterne hut, down les Argentieres to Chalets de Souay, over the Passage De Derrochoir - very exciting scrambling, and back via the Sales refuge.  22km, 1700m ascent.

This Chamois hopped off the path right in front of me on the way down from the Sales hut

Exciting 200m vertical stretch of fixed equipment on the Passage de Derochoir.

24/08/14
Another longish day, but with duller overall scenery around the Lac de Gers and Pelouse plateau above Flaine from the Sixt valley. 20km, 1630m ascent.

Looking across alpine meadows to the Lac des Gers

The view towards Chamonix between clouds from above Flaine

25/08/14
The best day so far, a super long trail running circuit from our new book around the Varan and Plates refuges.  From Bay (above Passy / Sallanches), up to the Aiguille de Varan - an airy little scramble, and down across the crazy limestone pavement to the Plates refuge.  Down the exhilarating descent and back across to the van.  18km, 1500m ascent.

The ascent is up the valley nearer the bottom right of the picture, across the limestone pavement on center left and down between the crag top center left.

The amazing descent path

26/08/14
A very rainy day off in Chamonix.  In the run up to the UTMB there were a few running pop up stores open, but due to the rain I only stopped at a few of the open ones.

Selfie!

27/08/14
Walking in Verbier for the first time since Spring. 32km, 1500m ascent.  From la Chaux, around the sentier de Chamois, over the cols to the base of the Rosablanche, down to Tortin, up col de Chassoure and back.

View from just above La Chaux, Verbier.

Ibex on the sentier des Chamois walking route

28/08/14
An admin and rest day in Verbier, final bits of research to do and sleep in preparation for the exam in a few days.

A Kerner's Lousewort

29/08/14
Trail running on a different route from the same book, from the Col de Forclaz, past the Trient glacier over the Fenetre d'Arpette and around via Champex.  Incredible but busier.  21km, 1800m ascent.

Green mountains above the Trient village

The path that takes you up to the Fenetre D'Arpette

30/08/14
Chilled day finishing off revision and catching up with mates and last week's candidates.

Views typical of the alpine trekking in the Samoens area

31/08/14
Last minute navigation and ropework practice around the Folly hut area before the new week starts tomorrow. 10km, 800m ascent.

1-4/09/2014
The IML summer assessment - read next blog post for more.

Trient Glacier

Totals:
Days: 12 days, 10 of which were out on the hill, 8 of which were long hill days
KMs: 170km
Ascent: 12 730m ascent
Flowers spotted: lost count, over 100 - most exciting were the Mount Cenis Bellflower and Kerner's Lousewort (how sad am I!!!)
Animals seen: Ibex, Chamois, Marmot, Squirrel, people!
Birds seen: lots, I still don't know what they all are!

Best route:
Has got to be the Varan Plates day - long, but incredible, technical, quiet and amazing. 

Dark clouds in the distance bring and end to the sun - this has been one of the worst alpine summers in years.

Route to go back there for:
I never managed to get to do the Mt. Buet circuit.  Having been there in winter, I would love to do a summer hit, next year...