Saas Fee 4000ers ski mountaineering trip

Early morning at the Britainnia Hut

After a quick recovery from a week in the Ecrins I joined Tom in Saas Fee for a last minute quick hit to do as many 4000ers as we could.  It looked as though we would have a 3-4 day good weather window, so with two nights booked at the Britainnia Hutte for Thursday and Friday night we set off.

One of the larger crevasses we crossed on the way to the Allalinhorn

Thursday 9th April 2015 - Allalinhorn 4027m

An early wake up call for the drive to Saas Fee so that we could get an early lift up the mountain as it was forecast to be a hot day.  Driving from Verbier to Saas was stunning at that time in the morning, I got to see dawn rise as I travelled down the valley, and it reminded me of how many other mountains I have yet to explore in Switzerland, the Wildstrubel in particular.

The final section to the summit of the Allalinhorn

From the highest lift we started the relatively short 500m ish skin to the Allalinhorn (4027m).  Although a short skin, we noticed the thinner air up here and could only make steady progress up.  It was a good acclimatisation peak, and one that gave us magnificent views of all of the other 4000m peaks in the area.  On the ascent we took the opportunity to practise skinning roped up.  There were a few big crevasses, and we weren't sure what to expect, but after the first kick turn I hardly noticed the rope at all.

Skiing down infront of the Mattehorn (on the left) and most of the Alps!

Skiing straight from the summit itself (quite exposed on the LHS as there were several parties still coming up from the normal route), we soon found some powder lower down and got a few good turns in.  All too quickly we found ourselves having to navigate the ski resort - we couldn't find a piste map or any signposts!  Eventually we took the gamble to ski on the pistes towards the T bar before the track to the hut hoping we wouldn't need another ski pass (we only had a one way pass to save money).  Luckily there was no ticket barrier and we saved ourselves 200m of hot skinning!

The tidiest hut boot room?

The Britainnia hut is situated just above a pisted track from the ski resort, which is reached by a speedy slide and short uphill walk.  We arrived at around 2pm and had lunch outside in the sun, watching the groups of skiers suffer in the last uphill skin to the hut returning from their objectives!  Siesta, a huge dinner and sleep followed.

Skinning by moonlight on the way to the Strahlhorn

Friday 10th April 2015 - Strahlhorn 4190m

A 5:15am wake up call (from the hut itself) for breakfast at 5:30 to leave at 6am.  Managing to force some museli down (I think it tastes like cardboard!) with some yogurt, bread and coffee, it was not a long affair.

First rays of sunlight

A short icy ski down from the hut by headtorch led to the long skin towards the Strahlhorn.  A couple of hours passed by quickly as we glided our way up the glacier, and it made for a good leg warm up before the final climb to the summit.  Dawn this morning was fantastic and really added to the atmosphere and our general psych levels.

Nearly at the summit

The first skier to summit passed us as we made our way up the final slopes towards the summit, and we were able to skin up almost all of it, booting the final section.

Tom on the way to the 'true' summit, a short rocky ridge.

Glad to be on top before the heat of the day really set in (I think it was about 10am ish), we transitioned into ski mode and started the long descent down.  The only disadvantage of being so early was that the snow was still pretty frozen!  Breakable crust, ice, weird powder and leg jittering sastrugi all added to the descent!  It was only in the last ten minutes or so that we had some spring snow.

Me skiing down the glacier (the snow was worse than it looks!)  (photo from Tom)

Just to get us in the mood for lunch, the final 100m skin up to the hut awaited us, this time at midday, we spread out across the slope, which was a good thing as the odd roller ball was coming down, and we made it back for peanut butter sandwiches.

Dawn was a bit more atmospheric this morning as the weather started to change

Saturday 11th April 2015 - Rimpfischhorn 4199m

The same early start as yesterday, and today we took all of our stuff with us as we did not have a hut booking for the night.  Neither the Tasch or the Langflue would pick up the phone and the Britainnia Hut did not know if they were open or not.

The Strahlhorn is on the left, Rimpfischhorn on the right

With the same intial start up the glacier as yesterday, we gave our legs a good warm up, feeling quite acclimatised by now.  Soon we crossed the Allalinpass and headed south around the various spurs coming down off the mountain.  Here I should mention that the route on my 2004 map went right over some large crevasses, so, like the tracks before us, we lost some height by avoiding them, and continued around towards the bottom of the snow gully that the short climb starts up.

Catalogue pose on the start of the scramble before it all got a bit cold and snowy!

Leaving our skis at the start of the gully, we climbed up a good bootpack until half height where the traverse left to the rocky ridge starts.  Initially we soloed up the rock, and laterly opted to pitch it due to the consequences of a fall.  There was lots of other dubious and rather unsafe ropework going on in the other teams!  

Selfie on the slab.  Do we look cold!?  (photo from Tom)

By now the weather was turning, foggy, snow started to fall, and the wind picked up.  It was cold to the core, but this only served to make us go faster.  Each pitch was like a speed competition, not only to keep warm but to stop the team behind (with the dubious ropework) getting too close!  After four or so pitches our hands had regained feeling and we were soon at the short steep sided snowy arete to the summit.

Relieved to be at the summit and alot warmer too!  (photo from Tom)

Quick photos on the top were followed by a super quick descent, alternating lowering and abseiling - with a 30m rope, this was interesting, and although we could have been a tiny bit quicker, we were super safe and pretty slick - especially considering neither of us had done that much ropework over the winter! Ab tat and maillons were plentiful on the way down, almost at 15m intervals, and this combined with the odd innovative idea made for a good descent.

Looking back at the snowy exposed ridge

Returning to the skis, the fog was now thicker than ever, snowing lots, and we decided the best course of action would be to return along the route we knew to the Britainnia hut and decide there what to do (if we could get a reservation).  The snow was leg burning on the descent.  After a long 1300m ish climb, the last thing you need is foggy crusty snow to ski through!

Finally, with a surprising lack of navigation needed, given the weather, we made it to the hut at about 4pm.  After a look at the weather and some rehydration and refueling we made the decision to head back to Saas Fee.  My legs were pretty knackered and the prospect of another 1300m day through fresh snow,  combined with an incorrect forecast, and higher winds, made me say no, despite the fact that there was space for us in the hut.  The Alphubel will have to wait until next time, hopefully in a bit of a traverse from the Monte Rosa group.

Me doing the telemark skin!!!  Psyched to come back here  (photo from Tom)

To summarise it was a great three days, with amazing summits, scenery and company.  The only problem is that I can't wait to go back!!!