Summer Expedition to Kyrgystan and Uzbekistan

Expedition to Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan - written about a month ago!

Earlier this week I returned from a month long trip as an expedition leader with a group of 12 students and 2 teachers.  Not only was it lovely to have such a small group of bright students, but the entire expedition was a great success from the trekking to the project and the rest and relaxation at the end.

Market shopping for vegetables in Kyrgyzstan

Having only been in Kyrgyzstan for a couple of days we were off on the acclimatisation trek around Son Kul.  A beautiful lake just south of Bishkek and surrounded by hills and snowcapped mountains.  Along the way we crossed several high cols and the students had to cook all of their own food and wild camp.

First campsite on the Son Kul Lake acclimatisation trek

Walking up the 'gorge' on the Son Kul trek, beautiful scenery and trickier underfoot

Soon after this was our main trek in the Tereskey Alatau mountains south of Karakol – one of the main starting points for trekking in the East of the country and at the far end of Lake Issu-Kul (the second largest alpine lake in the world and very much like Lake Geneva).

First day of the main trek in the Terskey Alatau range

On the way up to the first big pass on the main trek

This was a tough and demanding trek through stunning alpine scenery and crossed several passes over 3500m.  With singing, determination, good pace setting and amazing food cooked on trangias the entire group made it through.  

Amazing alpine like trekking on the way to the main pass of the big trek

The famous Ala Kol Lake

We were lucky to encounter no snow fields and have no serious river crossings.  The weather was also reasonably kind to us, letting us off with a few strong rain showers in the afternoons, no snow and only one freeze overnight.

Lots of the local kids took part in the project

From here we began our epic five day border crossing through Kazakstan to our project site in the Nurata mountains of Uzbekistan.  Generally the project phase of the trip is the phase I am most worried about.  High expectations from the group, combined with 3^rd world organisation and plans, communication through many channels from organisation to organisation, and you can often have a mini nightmare on your hands.  However I can honesty say it was the best project I have been part on the leadership team for yet.  The task was to provide the school with a water source by digging a small trench 1.2km long, laying pipes in it and there you go (in three days).  The first day 600m was dug, the second and morning of the third the rest was dug, and by the afternoon of our last day the pipes were laid, connected and covered and water was flowing out of the end by the school.

The Kalon Minaret in Bukhara

More buildings in Bukhara

After this it was time to head for the final expedition stage, the Rest and Relaxation (or R+R).  A whirlwind tour of Bukhara and Samarkand followed, both as incredible as each other and filled to the brim with huge buildings somewhat controversially restored mixed in with older derelict and modern mosques.  Outside of tourist season it was hot but quieter and a great end to the trip, not least because the food was better!

The Registran in Samarkand

Overall it was a thoroughly successful expedition and I can't wait to explore more of the Alpine like terrain of Central Asia and am hoping to visit Tajikistan in the not too distant future (if you know of anyone who has skied here please let me know!)

Vanoise ski touring - 'the snow sky interface tour!'

A little over two weeks ago I packed up and moved out of Verbier to move home for the summer via a short ski touring holiday in the Vanoise national park.

The forecast for the entire Alps that week did not look good, snow, mixed, snow, cloud, fog, more snow and maybe a little sun on the 'mixed' days.  I set off for Moutiers via Chamonix on a three hour drive through what would be the most incredible scenery if I could have seen it!  Here we stayed at the Hotel Terminus, which was very reasonably priced, right opposite the train station, friendly and clean.

This picture sums up our holiday, fresh snow, mixed weather and yet still not that much snow!

Sunday 27th April

An early bus took us to Val Thorens, where we had planned on using the lift system with a short skin to head over the Col de Gebroulaz and down to the Refuge Peclet Poset possibly via a peak on the way.  Upon our arrival we realised that this was not going to be the wisest way in, luckily we had driven a car up too so we drove over to Pralognan la Vanoise and parked by the Pont de Gerlon. - they hadn't yet cleared the road to the Les Ruelles.  From here it was a couple of hours walk to the refuge in the fog and snow via a coffee at the Roc de la Peche (it was only from here that we were able to start skinning).

Skinning in the fog

Monday 28th April
Today was forecast to be a bad weather day and it was.  We still got up at 6.30 ish, ever hopeful for some better 'mixed' conditions.  Omelettes at lunch soon followed, and by 2pm it was time for a wander around.  A quick skin outside in the fog, some crevasse rescue, ski belay, and multiple transciever search practice; then a hasty departure back to the hut to dry out.

Skinning up to the Dome De Polset

 Tuesday 29th April
Sun, fresh snow, and some clouds.  Our aim today was to skin up to the Dome de Polset, and then return to the Moutiers.  A few navigation stops were needed along the Lac Blanc as we decided to skirt around the N side of it and we made it to the steeper slope at the western edge.  The sun had already hit this and roller balls were coming down in rapid sucession forcing us to spread out and take more care in our route selection.  Joining the hut guardian we plowed on up breaking trail the whole way.  Once on the glacier we took the route up the eastern edge (not marked on the newer maps) and between the points 3267 and 3400 reaching the small col just SW of the Dome and summitting via this short ridge.

The direct way down the couloir to the Lac Blanc

A fabulous ski descent awaited, initially in the fog, then down great powder laden slopes to a direct couloir leading to the lake (mentioned in the toponeige book).  Despite being steep it faced more SE than E, so was a safer option.  From here it was a long traverse and more turns back to the hut.

Wednesday 30th April
From Moutiers we drove over to Val D'Isere, changed our plan five more times, and found the 'cheapest hotel in town' or almost, a 90 minute walk up the road to the Refuge de Prariond!  40 euros including dinner and breaky as supposed to 100 without.  Another walk with skis on our back in the snow and fog ensued.  This time we spent most of it on a summer path at the top of a steep gorge, if you slipped, bad things would happen and it is a notorious spot for losing skiers.  At the end of the gorge we were able to skin the last 15mins to the hut.  Delicious sausages in white wine sauce and cheesy polenta for dinner.  Yum.

You can make out the summer path we followed to the hut above the gorge

Thursday 1st May
Bluebird powder day.  And another leisurely spring start, breakfast at 6:30 as it was forecast to be cold.  Letting the slower French party go first we were able to grab more coffee, skin up lazily and leave their guide to break trail for the intial section, knowing it wouldn't be long until we overtook.  Today our aim was the peak, the Grande Aiguille Rousse.  We raced up in the icy cold to keep warm and soon found ourselves going up at around 450m per hour or more (fast for a holiday!).  

Morning light on the skin track

Soon the French were behind us and we were breaking trail up the glacier in the sun.  Sticking to the right hand side of the glacier we made it as close to the summit as we could get due to the large cornice, skis on and got the first tracks.

Beautiful snow on the skin

The last section of skinning before the summit of the Grande Aiguille Rousse

 It was beautiful powder and one of the best days of my season.   So good that we stopped and skinned up another 250m or so for some more turns.  Back to the hut for more omlettes and the night.

Perfect powder skiing down the Grande Aiguille Rousse

More amazing powder, the summit is back left

Friday 2nd May
A fast escape down the summer path above the gorge, this time in crampons as there was more ice underneath.  And an afternoons piste skiing in Val D'Isere, which was great despite being foggy.

The walk back out in more snow

Saturday 3rd May
An attempt was made to ski at Val Thorens and maybe to do some skinning using the lift system, but this was aborted due to more bad weather.  I started the long drive home, more psyched than ever for the following ski season.  Next year I will do more touring.


I can honestly say I have never been on a weeks touring where we had to change plan at least 5 times a day and one with such bad continual weather.  My previous years of lucky runs were definitely over.  It was a great week though!

Epic Easter bank holiday weekend - Tryfan dawn patrol, Carneddau trail running, and climbing

I spent the recent Easter bank holiday weekend at home in Snowdonia.  The forecast was great from before Friday to the following Tuesday, this, combined with some time off, gave me the perfect excuse to get out in the mountains every day.

Close to the summit of Tryfan just after sunrise

On Friday I met up with Nicky and we aimed to have a relaxed and fun day out climbing on a relatively quiet crag.  We headed to Clogwyn Y Clipiau in the Moelwyns, and despite the classic mountain crag forecast there were four other teams climbing.  The routes, rock and view were great and we more than achieved our aim - even though we finished too late for an ice-cream at the nearby cafe!

Climbing in the Moelwyns, picture taken by Nicky

 Saturday morning soon arrived with alarm clocks ringing at 4am alerting us that it was time to get up for a pre-work walk.  There was just enough time for a quick coffee and some freshly made bread for breakfast before driving to the Ogwen valley.

On the Bochlwyd path towards Tryfan

The moon just poking out above the Glyders

Togged up in lightweight trail running gear complete with headtorches and carbon walking poles we set off towards Tryfan.  90 minutes later we topped out having just missing the sun rise.

Morning light above the Glyderau

We were treated to some incredible views and the summit completely to ourselves.  On the way down we passed several parties just heading out and it looked set to be a great but busy day in the hills.

More incredible early morning views

Monday brought the last good day of the forecast and I thought it was time for a long run in the hills.

The route I took, recorded by my runkeeper app

I hadn't been into the Carneddau for a while and what better way to begin than an ascent of Pen Yr Ole Wen 'the hard way', straight up from Ogwen Cottage.

The 'beautifully loose' path up Pen Yr Ole Wen

From here I ticked off Carnedd Dafydd, Yr Elen, Carnedd Llewelyn, Pen Y Helgi Du, Pen Llithrig Y Wrach, down to Llyn Cowlyd Reservoir, along the leet to the tarmac road and back down the old byway / A5 to Ogwen Cottage... phew!

Views towards Llyn Idwal

It was epic, I only passed around five people on my way, there was a cool breeze blowing providing perfect temperatures, and in less than five hours I was back at my van knackered.

The view down the Ogwen valley from the path beside the leet